Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated.

Go Back   Australian Ford Forums > Club and Speciality Forums > Forum Community Car Clubs > AU Falcon.com.au

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-02-2006, 03:10 PM   #1
canuk7
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 96
Default radiator & block flush

hi guys,
thinking of changing my coolant and flushing rad & motor on my au1 forte.
the manual i have gives me some idea what to do, but to flush the motor it says to connect the hose to a heater hose which is way under the motor.is there an easier way to do this. As i have never done this before is it an easy job to do? Any idea's greatly appreciated. Thanks

canuk7 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
This user likes this post:
Old 04-02-2006, 09:49 PM   #2
JC
Miami Pilot
Donating Member2
 
JC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,701
Tech Writer: Recognition for the technical writers of AFF - Issue reason: Writing tech articles 
Default

I disconnect the top radiator hose at the radiator, then stick the hose in the coolant bottle when I do a "home flush". Gets rid of most of the gunk, and my coolant has stayed a nice green colour for the last 18 months since I flushed the 6. Also pays to turn the heater on so that the water passes through the heater core etc and gets all the crap out of there as well.

To get all the stuff out of the radiator, I stick the hose in where it take the top radiator hose off. So between the coolant tank and top radiator hose, I figure that gets through most of the system, and I just let the water run until it goes clearish - at least until the brown/browny green colour has gone.

Oh, and you need the engine running when doing this. There is no chance of overheating as the cold tap water is a continually cold source of water to keep the engine nice and cool - in fact I would be surprised if the guage gets anywhere near the N in the NORMAL range.
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

Ford Performance Club ACT
JC is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 04-02-2006, 10:47 PM   #3
S3SR
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
S3SR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: QLD - Townsville
Posts: 1,772
Default

yeah im about to do this as well any advice on the best coolant?
S3SR is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 04-02-2006, 10:56 PM   #4
canuk7
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 96
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
I disconnect the top radiator hose at the radiator, then stick the hose in the coolant bottle when I do a "home flush". Gets rid of most of the gunk, and my coolant has stayed a nice green colour for the last 18 months since I flushed the 6. Also pays to turn the heater on so that the water passes through the heater core etc and gets all the crap out of there as well.

To get all the stuff out of the radiator, I stick the hose in where it take the top radiator hose off. So between the coolant tank and top radiator hose, I figure that gets through most of the system, and I just let the water run until it goes clearish - at least until the brown/browny green colour has gone.

Oh, and you need the engine running when doing this. There is no chance of overheating as the cold tap water is a continually cold source of water to keep the engine nice and cool - in fact I would be surprised if the guage gets anywhere near the N in the NORMAL range.
thanks jc, i'll have a go at it
canuk7 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 05-02-2006, 12:10 AM   #5
Chippar
The Ancient Warrior
 
Chippar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: The Qld Border Ranges
Posts: 346
Default

Quote:
yeah im about to do this as well any advice on the best coolant?
I don't think you can go past the genuine ford coolant. Its pretty expensive but I believe it's it's worth it in the long run.

A mechanic mate of mine in Mt Isa, showed me a head that he pulled of a taxi that had done around 450000k's. It had only ever been flushed and refilled with the ford coolant and the water jackets were as clean as a whistle and with no reaction occurring with the alloy.

The proof was in front of me and I have never used nor recommended anything other than the genuine coolant since. But each to their own choice.
Chippar is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 05-02-2006, 01:03 AM   #6
JC
Miami Pilot
Donating Member2
 
JC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,701
Tech Writer: Recognition for the technical writers of AFF - Issue reason: Writing tech articles 
Default

I use the Nulon long life coolant. But it's really your choice. Just make aure the coolant meets the specifications in the owners manual.
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

Ford Performance Club ACT
JC is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 05-02-2006, 01:07 AM   #7
stiddy
Banned
 
stiddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Beaumont Hills
Posts: 2,536
Default

i use coolant from eeek "Holden" my mate works there and gets bottles of coolant, brake fluid, powersteering fluid, injector cleaner, etc etc.. so i steal it off him..
stiddy is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 05-02-2006, 01:27 AM   #8
XR6-VCT-2000
Fantastic Plastic
 
XR6-VCT-2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mars most of the time
Posts: 2,019
Default

I actually didnt get a handbook with my au2 , any chance of someone telling me the correct coolant specifications from the users manual ?, thanks . ;)
XR6-VCT-2000 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 05-02-2006, 02:03 AM   #9
JC
Miami Pilot
Donating Member2
 
JC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,701
Tech Writer: Recognition for the technical writers of AFF - Issue reason: Writing tech articles 
Default

AU2 Fluid Specs:
Engine Coolant 16 litres - Ford Spec WSS-M97-B44C or D (Warning - do not mix different grades of colant. Always flush the system before refilling with a different grade coolant)
Brake Fluid 0.5 litres - DOT4 minimum
Power Steering 0.95 litres - Ford Spec ESN-M2C-134D or MobilFluid 424 (Ford R1-424)
Auto Trans 4.0 litres - Ford R1-48 or Castrol TQ-95, Mobil ATF 95LE or equivalent
Manual Trans 1.9 litres - Ford Spec ESR-M2C-163A - Dexron 2, Ford R1-36 (Add 150ml of Lubrizol 7906 friction modifier)
Engine Oil (except XR8 sedan) 5.5 litres - API spec SJ/CF 10W30/40/50 Ford Spec WSS-M2C910-A2. Ford R1-310
Engine Oil (XR8 sedan only) 5.5 litres - API spec SJ/CF 15W40 Ford Spec WSE-M2C902-A3. Ford R1-300
Diff Oil 1.65 litres - 6 cyl SAE90 Hypoid Ford Spec ESW-M2C108-a or WSP-M2C197-A
Diff Oil 1.65 litres - LSD 6cyl - SAE90 EP Ford Spec ESW-FM2C1006-B
Diff Oil 1.60 litres - V8, XR & IRS Mobilibe SHC ID Ford Spec ESZ-M2C190-A
Air con refrigerant 850grams - R134a Ford Spec WSH-M1C231-B
Air con compressor Oil 207ml - Sanden SP-10 PAG
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

Ford Performance Club ACT
JC is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 05-02-2006, 02:15 AM   #10
XR6-VCT-2000
Fantastic Plastic
 
XR6-VCT-2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mars most of the time
Posts: 2,019
Default

JC , excellent , thanks mate ;) - you also covered the rest of the goodies to that i would of eventually been asking about, thanks again - much appreciated ;)
XR6-VCT-2000 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 05-02-2006, 08:32 AM   #11
GUTLES
Adam.
 
GUTLES's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Garfield, Victoria
Posts: 2,652
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
I use the Nulon long life coolant.
I use this too, was about $40 for 5 litres & lasts something like 5 years / 150,000 kms..
__________________
2004 BA XR8, Winter White, Manual, 20's, Bluepower Custom Tune, Difilippo Extractors, etc - 241.4rwkw

2007 BF Mk2 Winter White E-Gas Wagon, 6 Seater.

2002 AU3 XR6, Liquid Silver, Manual, Sunroof, LPG, Rebel Kit, BA GTP's, Momo Steering Wheel & Gear Knob.
GUTLES is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 05-02-2006, 12:37 PM   #12
Chippar
The Ancient Warrior
 
Chippar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: The Qld Border Ranges
Posts: 346
Default

I
Quote:
actually didnt get a handbook with my au2 , any chance of someone telling me the correct coolant specifications from the users manual ?, thanks .
PM sent.
Chippar is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 07-02-2006, 12:15 AM   #13
S3SR
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
S3SR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: QLD - Townsville
Posts: 1,772
Default

yeah flushed it the other day ALOT of crap in the there new hoses from FORD - for FREE...yey and i switched to the red nulon stuff and it works the same if not better but i made a huge mistake and poured the concentrate straight in then added water LOL: would this make a difference or problems i didnt believe i did it till i added the water and for some reason i didnot use 16L
S3SR is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 07-02-2006, 01:10 PM   #14
Autocade
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 154
Default

Falcon SR
In my experience you have done this the correct way
With all of my cars to date at least a couple of litres of coolant remains in the block
If you had premixed the recomended 16 litres you would not have been able to get all of the coolant back in
Pouring all of the concentrate in first gives you full concentration for 5 years protection and maximum anti freeze anti boil properties
How do I know this ?
Well by stuffing up previously and premixing before refilling of course
Autocade is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 07-02-2006, 03:30 PM   #15
1971
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 152
Default

I Would Like To Flush Mine As Well,what About The Thumostate Will It Be Open For Flushing The Motor? Or Do You Run Car Untill Its Opened Up First,or Is This Just A Really Dum Question?
1971 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 07-02-2006, 05:07 PM   #16
outback_ute
Ute Forum Moderator
Contributing Member
 
outback_ute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melb
Posts: 7,227
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Autocade
Falcon SR
In my experience you have done this the correct way
With all of my cars to date at least a couple of litres of coolant remains in the block
If you had premixed the recomended 16 litres you would not have been able to get all of the coolant back in
Pouring all of the concentrate in first gives you full concentration for 5 years protection and maximum anti freeze anti boil properties
How do I know this ?
Well by stuffing up previously and premixing before refilling of course
Agree, there will be water still in the block, it doesn't all drain out, so by sticking the concentrate in neat you will end up with the right ratio and not watered down. That is the reason I don't buy premixed coolant.
outback_ute is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 07-02-2006, 08:55 PM   #17
JC
Miami Pilot
Donating Member2
 
JC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,701
Tech Writer: Recognition for the technical writers of AFF - Issue reason: Writing tech articles 
Default

Actually using that method youwill end up with too much concentrate and you will be mixing old and new coolant. Having said that, it's the same way I do it, and have never had a problem (that I know of).
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

Ford Performance Club ACT
JC is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 07-02-2006, 09:21 PM   #18
outback_ute
Ute Forum Moderator
Contributing Member
 
outback_ute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melb
Posts: 7,227
Default

I am talking about once you have flushed out the old coolant with water
outback_ute is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 08-02-2006, 12:24 AM   #19
S3SR
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
S3SR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: QLD - Townsville
Posts: 1,772
Default

yeah well i flushed with a hose until clear water came out fitted all the hoses ran the car for ten mins and flushed again youll be suprised what still comes out

ok thanks guys so straight concentrate first wont harm anything no worries i can drive me car now
S3SR is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Reply


Forum Jump


All times are GMT +11. The time now is 08:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Other than what is legally copyrighted by the respective owners, this site is copyright www.fordforums.com.au
Positive SSL