where to buy mobil super 2000 oil?

jerryaus · 10-01-2012, 10:36 AM

Hi, any one know where to get mobil super 2000 5w30 oil which has been used in fiesta?

i can't find any in supercheap or autobarn, only 5w30 with full synthetic which i think is unnecessary for fiesta.....

vhcbm · 10-01-2012, 12:14 PM

It doesnt really matter what brand you use but I think they use Castrol.

Fiesta_Man69 · 10-01-2012, 07:00 PM

I'd only ever use full synthetic. Why use inferior oil when better is readily available?

robjh80 · 10-01-2012, 08:46 PM

Petrogas Lubricants in Laverton North, Victoria stock it

4 x 5L Containers for $96.78 ... sounds very cheap to me ..

http://www.petrogaslubricants.com.au...5w30-4x5l.aspx

If you look at the Lube Guide on the Mobil website they recommend "Super FE Special" for the XR4

Petrogas Lubricants also stock this ... only in 208L drums though ... at $1,714.13 a drum! ..

http://www.petrogaslubricants.com.au...5w30-208l.aspx

vhcbm · 10-01-2012, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fiesta_Man69

I'd only ever use full synthetic. Why use inferior oil when better is readily available?

Totally agree with this!

Caydus · 11-01-2012, 01:59 AM

Though isnt it recommended to use oldskool dino juice for the first 5 - 10k kms for the run in before you switch to full synth?

Fiesta_Man69 · 11-01-2012, 10:02 AM

No, that's a myth: new engines don't need switching of oils/draining and changing to "run them in" anymore. Just put the best oil in you can afford and change every 15K.

Spinner77 · 11-01-2012, 11:15 AM

A myth?

Got a source/authority for busting this "myth"?

Caydus · 11-01-2012, 02:02 PM

As I understand it, the break-in process is the mechanical friction of the piston rings scraping against the piston walls forming a matching seal. Dino juice is used for the extra friction it allows to expedite this process until the rings are worn completely so that they seal 100% with the piston walls.

This is my source though it’s written for sports bikes and the layout looks like it’s been designed by a crazy cult, there’s some solid info there for 4 stroke petrol engines.

Quote:

3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.

Viewer Questions:

Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??

A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

Now there’s plenty of arguments for and against this so I can’t say this is the definitive answer, but it sounds damn convincing to me and it’s what I go by at the moment.

There's also this article which also explains the theory of running in.

Quote:

"If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could (read will) glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over.

Fiesta_Man69 · 11-01-2012, 07:41 PM

Simple, uncomplicated engines like the 1.6 in the Fiesta don't require any running in. Ring any manufacturer Ford, Holden, Hyundai, Mazda etc. and they'll all tell you the same - one would assume it's in their financial interests warranty wise to warn owners otherwise.

However, as a former owner of a 500hp atw rb26 which had been completely rebuilt, I'm aware that running in of built, high performance engines is completely different, as I've done it more than once. The Fiestas engine ain't in this league.

Spinner77 · 11-01-2012, 07:51 PM

And what is the specification of the oils these simple uncomplicated engines come with on delivery?

robjh80 · 11-01-2012, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spinner77

And what is the specification of the oils these simple uncomplicated engines come with on delivery?

From the factory it would have been Ford OEM Formula F engine oil which is a semi-synthetic 5W-30 made specifically for the Ford Motor Company to meet specs WSS-M2C913-C, WSS-M2C913-B, WSS-M2C913-A, ACEA A1/B1

What the selling dealer would have put in ... who knows? ... probably whatever they got the cheapest deal on that particular week for a 208L drum of oil .. could be anything really? ...

That's why when I bought my XR4 I drove it straight home and changed the oil immediately with Castrol Edge 5W/30 ... which is what I've been using ever since.

Pis-ton broke · 11-01-2012, 08:46 PM

repco @ $36-$37