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Go Back   Australian Ford Forums > Club and Speciality Forums > Forum Community Car Clubs > OzECruisers (E/N/D Series) > OzECruisers General Discussions

OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS

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Old 07-12-2006, 01:52 PM   #1
BADan
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Default Distilled or tap water for radiator?

Am going to flush out the radiator. I'll be using one of the corrosion inhibitors when refilling it. I know distilled water is no doubt the best option, but with the inhibitor, will tap water be fine? Cheers.

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Old 07-12-2006, 01:56 PM   #2
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Yes it will be fine, unless your water has a high amount of deposits.
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:27 PM   #3
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Eg: Adelaide water....
I use premixed coolants in mine, because they have no Adelaide water in them.
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:29 PM   #4
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Or worse, Ballarat water. If it's Melbourne water you will be fine though.
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:29 PM   #5
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I use distilled water. Cheap as from woolworths.
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Old 08-12-2006, 08:37 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregaust
I use distilled water. Cheap as from woolworths.
Or 'as near as' free tap water
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:39 AM   #7
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Free tap water...? no at my joint...worse than power/gas down my way.

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Old 08-12-2006, 10:57 AM   #8
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Free tap water...? no at my joint...worse than power/gas down my way.

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Old 08-12-2006, 01:40 PM   #9
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best off using distilled water, the less contaminants/minerals and chemicals the lesser the risk of corrosion/scaling from happening. at a bare minimum use filtered water.
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:43 PM   #10
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As a diesel fitter. Id recomend you use a premix coolant. Tap water it tricky as you never really know whats in it. Even to much chlorine is harmful to alloy componants.
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Old 08-12-2006, 04:52 PM   #11
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Pffffft, I used water from our dam (not a big river dam, a small muddy hole in the ground country style dam) with no 'real' coolant in it for a couple of years. Coolant is overrated.
Except on the 5L's, they corrode rather fast for some reason, especially waterpump housings :
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Old 08-12-2006, 09:49 PM   #12
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Have you ever rebuilt an engine? Coolant stops the water from cavitating around the water pump and bores in the cooloant channels(It lowers the density and friction). I have seen cavitation damage done to blocks where they have been that badly pitted from using "dam" water that they leak coolant inside the boars. Coolant also makes the boiling temp alot higher. But mainly coolant or dca should be used as it protects the engine from cavitation aswell as corrosion
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Old 08-12-2006, 09:55 PM   #13
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distilled water for batteries, tap water for radiators.
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Old 08-12-2006, 09:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Have you ever rebuilt an engine? Coolant stops the water from cavitating around the water pump and bores in the cooloant channels(It lowers the density and friction). I have seen cavitation damage done to blocks where they have been that badly pitted from using "dam" water that they leak coolant inside the boars. Coolant also makes the boiling temp alot higher. But mainly coolant or dca should be used as it protects the engine from cavitation aswell as corrosion
No, I have not rebuilt this particular engine, but my car has never done a headgasket, it's done 280,000km (110,000 since I've owned it), and compression is fine. With the thermostat housing removed, everything looks as new. I do run coolant now however, because it is readily available to me. It's never had overheating problems, and I thrash the hell out of it on a daily basis. Good enough for me.
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Old 08-12-2006, 11:06 PM   #15
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Demineralised from Big W
$2.50ish for 4 ltrs

I use tap water for the holdens and cast heads.
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Old 08-12-2006, 11:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneredED
Pffffft, I used water from our dam (not a big river dam, a small muddy hole in the ground country style dam) with no 'real' coolant in it for a couple of years. Coolant is overrated.
Except on the 5L's, they corrode rather fast for some reason, especially waterpump housings :
Water *is* the coolant. What you are getting from the additive (usually ethylene glycol) is rust and scale inhibition when concentrations are low ( 5-10 % is recommended) and antifreeze/antiboil at higher concentrations (50% recommended - about 70% that effect drops off. Ethylene Glycol alone has poor thermal conductivity. You probably ran cool but risked increased corrosion. Premix Bulk Coolant is a rip-off if you have access to decent water - soft, not much mineral content.
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Old 09-12-2006, 12:42 AM   #17
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Well, I used normal water. It was fairly dirty, and had very little coolant left in it. Can't be any worse. Is now reasonably clean with a new lot of coolant.
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Old 09-12-2006, 03:52 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedXR8220
Or worse, Ballarat water. If it's Melbourne water you will be fine though.
Depends where in ballarat you get the water, which reminds me, next service to flush the coolant and replace the sensor
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Old 09-12-2006, 07:05 PM   #19
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What happens if you mix all 3, I have to admit that I have done it, aaaand then there is supposed to be the alloy head. ? Adelaide water.
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Old 09-12-2006, 07:25 PM   #20
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I use rain water.



And Tectalloy Gold Concentrate, 1lt makes 15lts.
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Old 09-12-2006, 09:32 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EBII Ghia
I use rain water.



And Tectalloy Gold Concentrate, 1lt makes 15lts.
Yea, chose that as the coolant to use. Nice long life which is handy.
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