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Old 22-06-2007, 05:30 PM   #1
347 mont
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Default rounded bolt off, HELP

Hi there gang,
Well today I went to do the relativly easy job of changing the front brake pads of the AUII and turned out to be a big head ache. Got the passengers side off with a bit of drama but on the drivers side one of the calliper bolts was seized on and I ended up rounding it off and now theres now way of getting the bugger off with a ring spanner or socket : .

Any suggesttions on how I might get over this hurdle.
The rotors look like they need skimming and if its going to cost around the $400 mark I will do the BF upgrade but I still got to get the flammin bolt out,
job gone horribly wrong. Thanks

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Old 22-06-2007, 05:38 PM   #2
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Give the head of the bolt a couple of taps with a hammer to loosen the threads and then get a pair of mutigrips on the head of the bolt real tight,that should do the trick.Also it should only be 30 bucks to get the pair of rotors skimmed,normally takes around 1/2 hour to 1 hour waiting.
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Old 22-06-2007, 05:39 PM   #3
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You can get spanner/sockets that bite on the flat edge of the bolt rather then the corners. Can't remember what they're called but thats what you'll need.
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Old 22-06-2007, 05:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockoau
You can get spanner/sockets that bite on the flat edge of the bolt rather then the corners. Can't remember what they're called but thats what you'll need.

Yeah you are correct because I went to Conventry's and bought one this morning, at $7.50 it was worth a try but still slipped off though it did grip better than normal ring panner.The brand name is CGL for those who might be wanting one in the future.
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Old 22-06-2007, 06:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUTickford
Give the head of the bolt a couple of taps with a hammer to loosen the threads and then get a pair of mutigrips on the head of the bolt real tight,that should do the trick.Also it should only be 30 bucks to get the pair of rotors skimmed,normally takes around 1/2 hour to 1 hour waiting.
Hi mate, gave the Vice Grips a go too, but it was awequid and couldnt get much leverage on it, I tell ya it's bloody tight, welding another nut on mat be the only option ?????
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Old 22-06-2007, 06:02 PM   #6
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Keep at it you will get it eventually,perseverance is the key and try not to get ****ed off at it.Maybe another sharp tap with the hammer then try the vicegrips again.If that fails maybe hammer a sixpointed socket onto the head if possible.

Last edited by AUTickford; 22-06-2007 at 06:06 PM. Reason: Redone due to missing the last post
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Old 22-06-2007, 06:12 PM   #7
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can you get a hacksaw balde to it ? cut a slot down the centre and get a heavy duty screwdriver in there ? may not be the right option for this
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Old 22-06-2007, 06:18 PM   #8
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tomorrow is another day and I'll give it another go. Just to let you's know its pretty rounded and bloody tight, real tight. Its at the stage where the you bute ring spanner I bought today (CGL grips on flats of bolt/ nut not corner) slips off once you put pressure on it.

Yeah DOC screw driver is out of the question mate, as you said bad position and as I said real tight mate.

A big thanks for your help so far fellas
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Old 22-06-2007, 06:23 PM   #9
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What suburb do you live in maybe i can come round tomorrow and lend a hand,ive got six pointed sockets and tools and stuff.Just had a thought,is it the top or bottom bolt coz if its the bottom you can take the top bolt out and try to lever the caliper a bit with a screwdriver and maybe that will loosen it up,if its on the passengers side that is.
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Old 22-06-2007, 06:30 PM   #10
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hammer cold chisel BANG the daylights out of it
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Old 22-06-2007, 07:48 PM   #11
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single hex sockets are the only way to go. (6 point socket) and if its tight, a breaker bar on that (long bar with fitting for socket that doesnt ratchet). forget spanners, they only flex. and as you found out, double hex sockets/ring spanners will only round tight bolts.
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Old 22-06-2007, 07:57 PM   #12
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They're in an awkward position for this, but another option may be to file some new flats on opposite sides and try a smaller open ender on it. One thing though, if you've given up on it tonight, I hope at least you've soaked it with WD40, CRC or similar...

All the best with it tomorrow.
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Old 22-06-2007, 08:16 PM   #13
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Hi guys just got back from the bunnings and got my self some adustable pliers, they're like a vice grip set up but hooked shaped. First I'm going to file to get shape back, then I'll try the new vice grip adjustable plier and last of all try the chisel & hammer.

AUTickford I'm over in Success mate (hopefully by name and by nature lol), I've got most of the tools should be right. Thanks for the offer champ. Oh its the top bolt on the drivers side.

Just for the record when I went to take the rear rotors off a few months ago they were seized on too, gave up but tried again a couple of weeks later armed with a puller and gave it a bit more of a wack with the hammer and presto, off they came, but it should'nt of been that hard to come off and niether should the callipers. Its now done 85k and more than likely these parts have never been off, I've never had this problem on the old XE or EBII.
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Old 22-06-2007, 08:25 PM   #14
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get a oxy and put some heat to the area around the threaded area on the bold try to put as little heat to the actual bolt as possible, and use a single hex socket..
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Old 22-06-2007, 08:44 PM   #15
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Use the same theory, take the bottom bolt out and try to lever the caliper upwards off the rotor,could be seized in the slide and this approach might do the trick to loosen it up.Hope you succeed in success
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Old 22-06-2007, 10:14 PM   #16
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get a slightly smaller socket and hammer it on.. usually does the trick, but have fun getting it out of the socket lol.
Welding another nut on the end would work to...
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Old 22-06-2007, 10:43 PM   #17
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a small monkey wrench or stillsons are the go, the reason they are hard to get off is they are loctited in and should be loctited when you replace them, if the bolt is knackered they are about $3.00 from ford for rear ones (don`t ask me how i know) so front would be similar i suspect.
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Old 22-06-2007, 10:45 PM   #18
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[QUOTE=AUTickford]Give the head of the bolt a couple of taps with a hammer to loosen the threads and then get a pair of mutigrips on the head of the bolt real tight,that should do the trick.QUOTE]


sounds like the way to go.
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Old 22-06-2007, 10:54 PM   #19
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look i know this will probably be pritty hard to do and take a while. but get a file and file 2 flats oppisite each other so an open ended spanner is very tight 2 get on you have 2 tap it on with a hammer then try an extension bar or try and stand on the spanner or my old favourite a massive f-off kick should work and if its seized penitrene will fix that. AND IF NONE OF THAT WORKS USE YA TEETH
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Old 23-06-2007, 11:04 PM   #20
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: Ah LIFE IS GOOD he he. I'm happy to report that I got the sucker off.
Last night back at the ranch I thought "well it buggered anyway so I got the hammer & chisel on to it trying to tap it undone, well it did'nt budge so I left it. Then this morning I had a look and boy what a mess the chisel done, it went pear shaped and I thought now I'm really screwed. OK, then I follwed up a phone call I made yesterday to a tool shop in Myaree and went to have a look at this new tool the guy was telling me about today, these new sockets only came out a few day ago the guy told me and they looked promising so I bought them and what do you know they done the job, bloody marvelous! They are socket by IRWIN, called "Bolt Grip". I highly recommend them should you ever find your self in a rounded nut/bolt situation.
Belive me I tried all the suggestion before they were suggested, vicegrips, hammering socket on (I thought welding another bolt on was going to be the only other option)
I'll post photo's and when you see the state of the bolt (after chiseling) you'll be impressed that these sockets got it off. They are definately the way to go.
Thanks to every one for your help and espeacially to AUTICKFORD and PEELER who offered to come round and pull me out the Winnie The Pooh.
Stay tuned for pics :
Cheers wayne
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Old 23-06-2007, 11:44 PM   #21
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who would of thought , so many car nuts know how to get screws out ...
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Old 21-10-2007, 10:21 PM   #22
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haha just had this problem yesterday. only option i had left at the time was to get the angle grinder onto the job. im an engineer and don't condone it at all. the other bolts came off with a ring spanner and a tap with a rubber mallet, but the one i rounded was caked with the yellow loctite they use. got to try and hunt a new bolt tomorro
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Old 21-10-2007, 10:31 PM   #23
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Snapon flank drive, these are what I use and I never have this trouble. Worth the extra spend in my book.
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Old 21-10-2007, 10:34 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt9889
haha just had this problem yesterday. only option i had left at the time was to get the angle grinder onto the job. im an engineer and don't condone it at all. the other bolts came off with a ring spanner and a tap with a rubber mallet, but the one i rounded was caked with the yellow loctite they use. got to try and hunt a new bolt tomorro
if it happens again do the following , strike the bold head with a decent hammer several times via a copper or brass bar , find a suitable impact socket and drive it on and turn if this doesnt work apply some heat , if this fails sit a good quality nut of suitable size and mig it on then remove , the nut offers a decent grip and the heat will melt the lock tight
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Old 21-10-2007, 11:00 PM   #25
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There are bolt removers that grip anything round... they use a 1/2" socket drive.
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Old 21-10-2007, 11:20 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atec77
if this doesnt work apply some heat , if this fails sit a good quality nut of suitable size and mig it on then remove , the nut offers a decent grip and the heat will melt the lock tight
Normally a great idea but being so close to the caliper i wouldnt try it
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Old 22-10-2007, 06:59 PM   #27
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i my job this is a daily occurrence the best way to remove it when the head is rounded and vice grips wont work is to get a nut and weld it to the bold head thorough the threaded hole set the welder amperage high to really penetrate the bolt fill the nut right up to the top then as the nut turns from red hot to black undo it as the heat from welding loosens the bolt with out putting much heat into the surrounding area. this trick has yet to fail me i have used it from 6mm bolts to 3 inch plus at work its also good if the bolt has broken and there is just not enough sticking out to get with vice grips.
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