350rwhp (Auto or Manual)

[06EVL]

OK first things first this is not an argument about Auto V Manual

I have a turbo kit that I am putting on my fairlane. Currently it has a BTR Auto (standard). My mild turbo setup will be between 300-350rwhp.

I need a gearbox to hold and I don’t want to spend a fortune. I understand that some of these gearboxes will not hold forever.

The car will go down the Strip, but 95% of the time will be on the Street.

These are the options.

Modifying my BTR with MV Autos Stage 1

Ford C4 Stage 3

T5 Manual with billet input shaft and heat treated gears

Questions:

Has anyone done any of these gearboxes above??

If so did they work??

Does anyone have any other options??

Opinions from people that have turbo FORDS is appreciated

[snypereb]

It also depends how many km's your trans has done my mate has an XB Coupe running 600hp at the rears. He has a stock full reco 4 speed auto trans out off and ED. He smashes the car sometimes and it doesnt miss a beat!!

[ebxr8240]

The T5 is out of the question and std clutch..A 3.45 [or 3.7] ratio diff, BIG oil cooler on BTR and AU solenoids to increase line pressure....They hold 300 rwkw ..
I don't think a C4 bolts in that easy??

[06EVL]

snypereb Trans has done 249,000km's, but not hard k's

ebxr8240 My diff ratios are 3.08:1 and I am not changing them I want BIG top end. This MV Autos in S.A said that they trick the S5 solenoid to max line pressure and do something with the value body.

[BOOSTDEF]

i would stay with the 3.08 but definately get two wheels down on track. You arent gonna get far with the SS. I sure know im not lol.. . Chirps on the stally and then loses it at about 3000.. so think about that.

The big guns seem to all run the ford 3 speed. But there are a few with btrs up there too...

5 speed you will never get traction with that much power down the strip, and the gear changes themselves will take their toll too.

[Deanodriver]

I reckon stick with the BTR as well.

I wonder how the ones used in the later models (like BA XR's and FPV's) differed from the older versions?

I'm assuming the C4 won't be as good for economy (it's a three speed, right?) and also won't have as much at the top end. The T5 is an interesting choice, would be more engaging to drive, but most of the top drag cars seem to use automatics (dunno if it's due to better power handling or faster gearshifts, or less wear on clutches?), so I'd be inclined to go for the BTR, but I'd probably get it reconditioned first .

Then again, I'm still a n00b, so I could be full of it.

[BOOSTDEF]

you want auto as you will get consistent torque as you will be WOT the whole way down the qtr. With manual, you are loosing boost through each gear change as the pressure in the system goes straight out the BOV... Then the few tenths taken respooling can be costly.

With constant boost, you will not loose those critical tenths you would with the gear changes.

I believe(could be wrong), the fastest E series qtr mile was done with a 3spd and a 2.77 lsd.. so if you want top end, there you go.

[ilsautomotive]

The other option is a top loader manual. One guy used one in an 11 second car and they are tough if crude.

Out of interest, how much was the stage 1 BTR mod you mentioned?

[dansedgli]

BTR, plenty around now that will take that kind of power. Its the easiest option as you dont need to convert anything.

I had 200rwkw without any hassles in my EB. I didnt even have a trans cooler.

My AU was running 308rwkw with the BTR as well. No issues.

[mcflux]

You'd want an LSD diff for sure. As for the auto, an S5 shift kit won't beef it up, but will help somewhat with stopping excess heat buildup during gearchanges.

You might want to consider upgrading teh clutchbands in the box, etc.

And cooling will be very important too, as has been mentioned.

(I'm opting towards the BTR for stip and street, it's a good all-rounder for that power figure)

-Dave-

[ea ba turbo]

300 to 350rwhp is no mild turbo setup for a start!!!!!

a tricked up btr would probably suit your application the best
give good (still not ideal 1st gear) allround ratios for accel and cruise for hwy use.

for outright drag application you cant go past the C4
you can get bellhousing or adaptor and std tailshaft will fit
small fabrication to the crossmember
(dont forget ea shafts only rated to 180kph....)
cost is the downside to this, up to$4300+(including converter) plus fitting,
plus good tailshaft

the t5 is not going to live long behind 300+rwhp and the price of a decent
clutch for this would also be a big downside.

Just a note, the btr and T5 wont take 300+ repeatedly if you get decent traction....., hey on the street they would probably be fine (lack of traction) but with decent traction it will be a different story.

[snypereb]

Regardless what you do there is always going to be something playing up somewhere!!

[06EVL]

Trouty
Ok the Stage 1 BTR modification. There was an article in the Street Machine Magazine (FORDS Issue 4).
The cost is around $450 (I think)

Ghia5L
My fairlane is a 1993 NC II Ghia and the LSD is standard. The Trans cooler is coming for PWR.

Ea ba turbo
300-350rwhp is not mild I should of said Stage 1 setup.
What do mean ideal 1st gear???
I have a standard alloy tailshaft and my car is a 1993 model not an 1988 model is that still limited to 180kph???

[svo347]

Mate im running a tremec and 3.73 geared end. With 247 rw/kw in the rain it sux i cant get off the line without sliding everywhere and i not even trying to get the wheels to spin.. It really sux, thus the reason of taking off in 2nd gear....
If i could change it, id go Auto for sure.