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Old 28-01-2010, 09:51 AM   #1
Jack91
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Default Whos running the Crow Cams 2232526?

After some opinions on this cam. Runs with the standard ECU, has a good gain down low and costs around $450 buying locally through repco/autobarn. Anyone running this model?

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Old 28-01-2010, 09:58 AM   #2
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Do you need any head work with this type of cam
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Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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Old 28-01-2010, 10:05 AM   #3
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Apparently no
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Old 28-01-2010, 11:59 AM   #4
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Is it classed as their stage 2 if so im running it
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Old 28-01-2010, 12:49 PM   #5
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Found some specs on these cams....

http://www.kbengineparts.com/crowcamsfordohc.html

The S1 cam is 2232526, S2/3 cam is 2232522

Doesn't say anything about any extra work, would be a swap-in job I assume....is there anything else you need to change with the camshaft? Noob question I know, but I don't know a whole heap about cams...

Both the 2232522 and the 2232526 have a power range from 900-3500rpm....above 3500rpm would it perform better or worse than the stock cam? Can anybody comment?
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Old 28-01-2010, 01:43 PM   #6
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under 3500, would be way better, but after would be just like stock
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Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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Old 28-01-2010, 05:26 PM   #7
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Anyone be able to tell me if its worth it over the stock xr6 cam? What would it change in term of 1/4 mile times?
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Old 28-01-2010, 05:28 PM   #8
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Yeh that's really low lol I wouldn't bother putting in a baby cam like that
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Old 28-01-2010, 06:37 PM   #9
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Well its going to be just over $600 by the time its all in and I get it back so if anyone is running this can I get some proper feedback? I would go a "milder" cam but I dont really want to fork out $1000 + to get a flash tuner and a dyno tune.
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Old 28-01-2010, 06:39 PM   #10
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Any idea why theyve put "Not for VCT or XR6" in the description? Why would it not work with an xr6?
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Old 28-01-2010, 06:47 PM   #11
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hey davo its luke, bens mate here, i am running a mild performance wade cam in the eb, and its running spot on, no tune or dyno or head work required not even a change of springs. its a straight in out job. the only thing that was extra was a new timing chain which was due anyways, my profile was 1636 from memory but yours being an au may be different, hope this helps, check out their website
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Old 28-01-2010, 06:48 PM   #12
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sounds like a 'towing' style cam to me. Means improve torque and throttle response down low to mid range, then stock pull from 3500 on.
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Old 28-01-2010, 07:11 PM   #13
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You can run something bigger without a retune just as long as you don't get something really lumpy, an ecu reset and a bit of driving should see you with more power and torque, you can run a Wade cam with an EF computer, a lot of e series guys get good results without a tune as the ecu adapts far better than the au ecu
it's not a conversion for everyone but I point it out anyway
I remember seeing some crow cams thar were mild but still bigger than this that would do without a tune. Perhaps ring them and see if they can direct you to the best product for you needs eg. Future mods, how you drive the car
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Old 28-01-2010, 07:48 PM   #14
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Well yeah Wade told me at 8am this morning that they didnt have anything for an au that will run with the standard ecu. Rang crow and said I wanted something thats going to make the 1/4's a bit quicker and give the car a bit more balls off the lights while making the idle a bit more cool sounding. This cam is what he recommended. Anyone with any I6 AU's running bigger cams and what problems did you have? However just reading the specs above seems as though this cam wont work anyway.
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Old 28-01-2010, 07:49 PM   #15
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Luke youre the one with the gt?
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Old 28-01-2010, 08:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVO_XR
Luke youre the one with the gt?
yeah mate thats me. weshould meet up sometime and put a face to each others nameslol if your interested mate.
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Old 28-01-2010, 08:18 PM   #17
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All my cam stuff was done at the tuners so i didn't see how it ran without a tune but mine is fairly big not something you'd go for without a tune
I think crow makes one 1800rpm+ with pull through the rev range
put it this way, you don't take off at 900rpm at the drags do you? 1800 is where the stock converter takes off any power below that is useless of cousre unless you're towing as previously mentioned
there's a good wrap up about I6 cams on the crow website
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Old 28-01-2010, 08:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVO_XR
Well yeah Wade told me at 8am this morning that they didnt have anything for an au that will run with the standard ecu. Rang crow and said I wanted something thats going to make the 1/4's a bit quicker and give the car a bit more balls off the lights while making the idle a bit more cool sounding. This cam is what he recommended. Anyone with any I6 AU's running bigger cams and what problems did you have? However just reading the specs above seems as though this cam wont work anyway.

Im running a fair size cam, .535 lift, 218@.050 thou duration.

I ran the car with no tune, chewed 20L of BP ultimate in like 5 km and 15 minutes idling, couldnt really drive it, fouled plugs, oxy sensor and cat, and was hopelessly slow. Plus to get it to drive without stalling, I had to either D slam it from 2000rpm, or stall it to 2000rpm and let it go every time.

Im sure the crow cams are regrinds, so that means youll need shims. Youll also most likely need a vernier gear to make the most of it. If you get a cam as big as mine, youll also need valve springs and retainers.

Once it was tuned, car runs great, idles (extremely lumpy) at 800-850RPM, and even with a stall and 3.9's averages around 10.9L/100km.
Only problem is its a bit slow under 3500rpm, but you get that with big cams. In saying that, it will happily swing past 6000rpm and feel very strong doing it.

I think for the value of the cam, springs, head to match, spring retainers, vernier gear, gasket sets and everything, head bolts, and a tune, probably the worst mod in terms of power and value Ive done, although I couldnt live without the idle.

Best mod so far would be diff gears, hands down.
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Old 28-01-2010, 08:49 PM   #19
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you can't expect the world if you only wana spend 600
the Monty was lucky and picked up a diff with the right ratio for cheap, mine turned out to be rather costly with a reco
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Old 28-01-2010, 09:03 PM   #20
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Thats all fair enough, not sure which way to go next though, paid for one of the ballistic cats off here today but really dont know what to do next, whats the cheapest mod after extractors, exhaust, cat and cai?
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Old 28-01-2010, 09:17 PM   #21
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Next is either cam and tune or diff gears.. If you shop around and can find s cheap diff with 3.7, 3.9 or 4.11 gears you'll get off the line amazingly quick, my car breaks traction off the line with 3.9s and my cam isn't suited for low rpm performance with a stock stall. If you buy gears and an LSD and then get it set up it can start getting costly as I found out the hard way.
That's the only other option really like youvsaid a tune is at least a grand and probably not big gains on a stock motor. Perhaps a caps flash tuner with a generic tune? I found it ok but wasn't thrilled. The monty ran 0.3 seconds faster on the 1/4 (correct me if I'm wrong) so if it's tines maybe you'll like it but I didn't feel much of a diference as the power was smoother. Hadcs bit more off the line and extra trans pressure etc
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Old 28-01-2010, 11:08 PM   #22
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So the consensus here is that I shouldnt get this cam?
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Old 28-01-2010, 11:11 PM   #23
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have a read of this before you shop with crow,

http://fordforums.com.au/showthread....ight=crow+cams

come to think about it they still havent got back to me wether the cam was the right one or not.

you would be extremely lucky to get a billet cam anywhere these days.
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Old 29-01-2010, 01:19 AM   #24
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Surecam get billets, even tho Wade doesn't do AU they do billets but take them months to come by from what I've read
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Old 29-01-2010, 06:26 AM   #25
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With the generic tune, I dropped a consistent .501 seconds off my 1/4 time.
Mod cost me $590 delivered, lol.
After exhaust and intake, there is no cheap mods, and deffinately nothing that has any huge gains.
Im not against the cam route, if only for the idle, lol.
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Old 29-01-2010, 10:37 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stattic
Surecam get billets, even tho Wade doesn't do AU they do billets but take them months to come by from what I've read

ring them and ask, the manufacturer in the states has gone bust. nobodys got any in stock and if they have their keeping them for themselves.
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Old 29-01-2010, 01:17 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Monty
With the generic tune, I dropped a consistent .501 seconds off my 1/4 time.
Mod cost me $590 delivered, lol.
After exhaust and intake, there is no cheap mods, and deffinately nothing that has any huge gains.
Im not against the cam route, if only for the idle, lol.
Id like to know where you got this flash tuner from for $590, even looking on ebay they start at $800 then you have to pay $100 to get it locked to your car and $100/tune thereafter.
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Old 29-01-2010, 02:07 PM   #28
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A KPM group buy about 2 years ago. Its only Xcal 1, everything is Xcal 2 or 3 these days, but Im sure KPM still do them at awesome prices.
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Old 29-01-2010, 02:45 PM   #29
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I paid 499 for my xcal1 direct from capa as advertised in street fords. Tune cost me just under 500 bucks so a grand all up

without a tune your cam choice is limited
have you considered cons like fuel usage? A few guys have gotten good economy where some like me have not. It's all in the tune really
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Old 26-03-2010, 10:35 AM   #30
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Mini thread-mine time....

How did this end up Davo_XR?? Did you end up getting the cam?

That crow cam would be ok for a daily driver setup wouldn't it???

Are there any cams that have a 1000 - 4000/4500 range that can be swapped straight in to an AU without requiring anything extra? Or would that be a custom job?
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