Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[CyberWasp]

That is one cheeky way to greet passers by when washing your car in the morning.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

That is one cheeky way to greet passers by when washing your car in the morning.

Might also stop the "you can do mine next" comments!

[In Focus]

Not sure if you've covered Dmitry's Garage youtube channel in here, but this is an interesting test of our old favourite Gyeon Q2 wax.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2T7YLf_JA5U

[DFB FGXR6]

Ooo, I do love me a catalog!

The latest Carpro catalog, posted here for all to geek out over.

https://carpro.global/wp-content/upl...2023_web_s.pdf

One thing that caught my eye was the Coatings and Sealants spread sheet on page 35, in particular the pH resistance of each product.





Naturally, the ceramic coatings offer the widest spread of pH tolerance, ranging from an acidic 2 or 3 up to an alkaline 12 or 13.

But check out the numbers for the spray sealants and "ceramic" detailers, Reload 2.0, Hydr02 and EliXir only having a very small window of pH tolerance of 6 to 7.

If Reload, Hydr02 and EliXir are only used as a topper to an existing coating, this is less important. But if used as standalone products, you need to be mindful of what you use to clean the car with if you want to see the claimed durability numbers (3 months for Reload and Hydr02, 1 month for EliXir).

So, outside of a pH 7.5 (neutral) soap such as Reset, using anything stronger will kill or severely harm any of those products. I would also recommend dialing in your soap dilution rates to prevent overdosing. Hit them with Descale at pH 3.7 or Lift at 12.3 would only be used when preparing for the next application.







I mention all this based on comments regarding the durability of these sort of spray sealants, in particular Hydr02 and the older version of Reload v1. Both of those were primarily designed as toppers to existing coatings, as such ultimate durability was not the primary consideration.

When used as a standalone, perhaps the expectations of longevity are a touch too optimistic. Combine that with the use of more aggressive soaps, this goes some way towards understanding why some notice a lack of longevity from Hydr02 and Reload.

[anobserver]

Autumn sale at waxit.

Finally ordered some Jet.

[fordomatic]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Ooo, I do love me a catalog!

The latest Carpro catalog, posted here for all to geek out over.

https://carpro.global/wp-content/upl...2023_web_s.pdf

One thing that caught my eye was the Coatings and Sealants spread sheet on page 35, in particular the pH resistance of each product.

image

image

Naturally, the ceramic coatings offer the widest spread of pH tolerance, ranging from an acidic 2 or 3 up to an alkaline 12 or 13.

But check out the numbers for the spray sealants and "ceramic" detailers, Reload 2.0, Hydr02 and EliXir only having a very small window of pH tolerance of 6 to 7.

If Reload, Hydr02 and EliXir are only used as a topper to an existing coating, this is less important. But if used as standalone products, you need to be mindful of what you use to clean the car with if you want to see the claimed durability numbers (3 months for Reload and Hydr02, 1 month for EliXir).

So, outside of a pH 7.5 (neutral) soap such as Reset, using anything stronger will kill or severely harm any of those products. I would also recommend dialing in your soap dilution rates to prevent overdosing. Hit them with Descale at pH 3.7 or Lift at 12.3 would only be used when preparing for the next application.

image

image

image

I mention all this based on comments regarding the durability of these sort of spray sealants, in particular Hydr02 and the older version of Reload v1. Both of those were primarily designed as toppers to existing coatings, as such ultimate durability was not the primary consideration.

When used as a standalone, perhaps the expectations of longevity are a touch too optimistic. Combine that with the use of more aggressive soaps, this goes some way towards understanding why some notice a lack of longevity from Hydr02 and Reload.

Interesting post mate, i'd love to know what Lustre can handle PH wise. I use my sportsman as a test and all the tops have evo and the sides different products. After 3 months the Lustre is cactus. I'm wondering if it's because i use 90ml of reset when I wash it. I need the suds because the car gets so smashed with tree sap and bird droppings.

I think the Evo may have failed on the roof as well, it's been on there 12 months. We'll see tomorrow when i wash it again, but it's stopped beading in about a 40x40cm spot. I don't put a topper over the Evo on the Sportsman as i'm testing it's durability.

Below pic shows the failure of Lustre after 3 months, you can see the line where I applied Evo on the guard. I love being able to test products on the Sportsman, as its out in the harsh elements 24/7

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Interesting post mate, i'd love to know what Lustre can handle PH wise. I use my sportsman as a test and all the tops have evo and the sides different products. After 3 months the Lustre is cactus. I'm wondering if it's because i use 90ml of reset when I wash it. I need the suds because the car gets so smashed with tree sap and bird droppings.

I think the Evo may have failed on the roof as well, it's been on there 12 months. We'll see tomorrow when i wash it again, but it's stopped beading in about a 40x40cm spot. I don't put a topper over the Evo on the Sportsman as i'm testing it's durability.

Below pic shows the failure of Lustre after 3 months, you can see the line where I applied Evo on the guard. I love being able to test products on the Sportsman, as its out in the harsh elements 24/7

image

I would also like to know the specifics of Lustre and Jet. They note Lustre is a 6 month product, but considering the harsh conditions, I'm not surprised its done within 3.

In terms of Reset, from what I have read, it does seem to be notably stronger than other soaps despite the "pH balanced" formula. It has been noted to shorten the life span of waxes and sealants, although I have not observed this personally.

With EVO, I would be trying a heavy decontamination and see if you can revive it. From what I have been learning recently, coatings get clogged and need periodic deep cleaning to bring back their hydrophobic behaviors. I'd be hitting it with an iron remover and NV Snow+ or Carpro Lift. Another thing to try would be using something like NV Shift, I have seen it suggested for reviving a coating that has lost its characteristics despite being relatively young.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/nv...21302806478937

If you do try something like the above (iron decon/decon wash/Shift), I would love to hear how you go with that. With EVO being a pretty stout coating, I would like to think the above would be pretty successful.

[prydey]

I did my territory with lustre and jet combo in early July last year. It's a daily driver and also did a trip to Brisbane and back at xmas. I wash it with NV snow, however have washed it once or twice with Reset.

Water still beads although not as good as when it was first done but still good enough to show there is a coating still working. I've been really impressed with how long it's lasted.

Perhaps there is an extra chemical reaction when lustre and jet are used as a combo??

Territory isn't pampered either, often going weeks between washes.

[Tonz]

left field question and I havent done a great deal of research or browsing but Ive seen a few places advertising ceramic coating for cars, how good is this compared to a really good wash, wax and polish regeime?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Tonz

left field question and I havent done a great deal of research or browsing but Ive seen a few places advertising ceramic coating for cars, how good is this compared to a really good wash, wax and polish regeime?

A complex question really, a how long is a piece of sting type of deal.

Wax Pro's -
- Requires less skill to apply
- Requires less intense prep
- Cheaper
- Offers a warmer look and a slicker feel.
- Is a tactile experience for those who enjoy it
- Can be stripped/removed easily

Wax Cons -
- Shorter durability/reapplied more often
- Less resistance to chemicals and contamination
- Reduced hydrophobic behavior
- Some paste waxes are hard to buff
- Some waxes can stain rubber trim


Ceramic Coating Pro's -
(This is for full ceramic coatings, not spray and wipe Si02 spray sealants)

- Extended durability when applied and cared for correctly
- High chemical and contamination resistance
- Supreme hydrophobic properties
- Often makes cleaning much easier
- Colour enrichment
- All surfaces can be coated with the same or specific products

Ceramic Coating Cons -

- Requires more application skill and time management
- High spots can be hard to remove
- Some coatings increase the risk of water spots
- On average, the coating product costs considerably more than a wax
- Requires more intensive preparation prior to install
- Often lack the slickness of a wax
- Requires more intensive periodic deep cleaning to maintain the coating performance.
- Are harder to remove when required


So, how good a ceramic coating is vs a wax will come down to your personal requirements and preferences. However, the success of both also comes down to how the car is prepared prior to application.

If the prep isn't thorough prior to the application of wax, reapplying doesn't incur a big cost, especially if done by the vehicle owner. On the other hand, ceramic coatings cost way more per milliliter, so improper prep work will result in your coating failing prematurely and a greater cost to reapply.

There is a reason why a professionally installed ceramic coating will cost above and beyond $1000. It's not necessarily the coating itself that costs the most, it's the massive amount of work that goes into the paint BEFORE the coating is even removed from the bottle. If a detailer is quoting seemingly cheap prices for a ceramic coating, then it will be the preparation steps (decontamination washing, claying, polishing, panel prep ect) that will be economized to make that price viable.

So, for me, I would rather apply a wax on a regular basis compared to a subpar ceramic application that is then going to fail within months, exactly the same as a wax.

[Tonz]

Thank you, my mind had been saying just what you reported.
The hardest part is getting the ommmff to start the hand wax process.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Tonz

Thank you, my mind had been saying just what you reported.
The hardest part is getting the ommmff to start the hand wax process.

If you have a D/A polisher, you can use that on the lowest setting with a waxing/finishing pad to apply the wax quickly and evenly. You would then follow up with small applicator to do the intricate areas.

[Tonz]

your expecting me to actually start ???

[prydey]

Originally Posted by Tonz

your expecting me to actually start ???

If you're like me, then asking the question on the forum is considered 'making a start' haha. How quickly it progresses from there is anyone's guess...

[anobserver]

Dfb, you unintentionally made a relevant point describing waxing as a tactile experience.

Ive always liked the handson approach. Lately its been even more useful to remediate a shoulder injury incurred just before Christmas.

The combination of reaching, stretching, and being able to apply variable pressure around shaped body panels has been a huge help in getting strength and movement back.

Highly recommended, and cheaper by the hour than the physio.

[prydey]

Need some help diagnosing a product failure.

Went to wash the Escape Wednesday morning and what is usually nice thick 'nv snow' foam, ended up being watery bubbles. No foaming action.

2 possibilities.

My 15yr old karcher has a problem

Or

The bowdens foam cannon has a problem.

First question is how much water pressure is needed to produce the foam?

The karcher was pulsing a bit when turned on but before pulling the trigger, so possibly an internal leak?? Once the trigger was pulled out sounded fine and while the pressure may have been down it was still fairly decent. If i removed the bowdens gun from the bottle, there was plenty of suction at the tube that goes in to the solution.

The bowdens foam gun is my primary suspect. I do the wheels first and the first wheel foamed up normal. It then went pear shaped and didn't foam. Occasionally showed signs of it but mostly just like a straight car wash mix.

Anyone had any success pulling apart either a karcher or a foam gun?

Can't afford replacement items at the moment so really hoping I can resurrect what I've got.

Thanks.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

Need some help diagnosing a product failure.

Went to wash the Escape Wednesday morning and what is usually nice thick 'nv snow' foam, ended up being watery bubbles. No foaming action.

2 possibilities.

My 15yr old karcher has a problem

Or

The bowdens foam cannon has a problem.

First question is how much water pressure is needed to produce the foam?

The karcher was pulsing a bit when turned on but before pulling the trigger, so possibly an internal leak?? Once the trigger was pulled out sounded fine and while the pressure may have been down it was still fairly decent. If i removed the bowdens gun from the bottle, there was plenty of suction at the tube that goes in to the solution.

The bowdens foam gun is my primary suspect. I do the wheels first and the first wheel foamed up normal. It then went pear shaped and didn't foam. Occasionally showed signs of it but mostly just like a straight car wash mix.

Anyone had any success pulling apart either a karcher or a foam gun?

Can't afford replacement items at the moment so really hoping I can resurrect what I've got.

Thanks.

Firstly, foam cannons need less pressure than many think. I got excellent foam from a Karcher K2 which has an "advertised" 1750 psi and 6L/min.

A pressure washer that is pulsing usually means a leak somewhere along the line. The machine will detect a drop in pressure and then activates the pump to bring it back to pressure, the cycle then repeats.

It will be either the gun that is leaking past the seals, the hose or an internal failure. The fact it maintains pressure when running would probably rule out the pump, which is good because most Karchers are sealed pumps and not serviceable.

My Karcher, which is also 15 years old, was surging a bit here and there. Because the hose burst, I had to replace the gun/hose assembly in one unit, from then the surging stopped. So, you have done well to get 15 years out of the gun.

The foam cannon on the other hand should be serviceable. Check out this page for Bowden's specific information. I'm willing to bet it has an internal blockage or the mesh screen that creates the form needs a clean -

https://www.bowdensown.com.au/blog/s...ssembly-guide/

https://www.bowdensown.com.au/guides...me-extra-tips/

I hope that helps.

[bfets]

Well, it seems my cheap Aldi pressure washer is on the way out. I have some Bunnings vouchers from Christmas and birthdays that I'll put towards replacing it. My current plan is to get a Gerni 7000. Anyone have experience with these?
I like the fact it comes with a hose reel and 10m of braided steel hose.

Also, I'm considering getting a MTM Hydro gun from Detailingshed which I think should make a decent combo. This is probably a nice to have and not mandatory, but the standard long gun on the current pressure washer really made it hard to use especially with a foam lance attached. All the weight at the front is a wrist breaker when trying to do the foaming one handed.

I'm also interested in hearing what types of spray nozzles you guys prefer to use. From my knowledge most professional detailers use the 40 degree white nozzles. I see Gerni does make a car nozzle, but it's 60 degrees.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

Well, it seems my cheap Aldi pressure washer is on the way out. I have some Bunnings vouchers from Christmas and birthdays that I'll put towards replacing it. My current plan is to get a Gerni 7000. Anyone have experience with these?
I like the fact it comes with a hose reel and 10m of braided steel hose.

Also, I'm considering getting a MTM Hydro gun from Detailingshed which I think should make a decent combo. This is probably a nice to have and not mandatory, but the standard long gun on the current pressure washer really made it hard to use especially with a foam lance attached. All the weight at the front is a wrist breaker when trying to do the foaming one handed.

I'm also interested in hearing what types of spray nozzles you guys prefer to use. From my knowledge most professional detailers use the 40 degree white nozzles. I see Gerni does make a car nozzle, but it's 60 degrees.

First of all, if you haven't already, have a read of this thread I made on pressure washers for car washing -

https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11496392

To summarize, for car washing, you want the highest flow number as possible, not necessarily pressure.

At 8.3 L/min, the Gerni 7000 is actually pretty decent. For reference, a Kranzle K1152 sits at 10 L/min but cost twice the price. The 10m hose should just be enough to get around the car without moving the machine, although 15m is comfortable.

After using an aftermarket short gun for a number of years now, there is a reason why I'm so insistent on fitting these to a pressure washer, they make the whole user experience so much easier!

Considering you are mentioning the MTM Foam cannon, which is the benchmark by the way, I would highly suggest ordering it in kit form, which includes a 40-degree nozzle and the SGS 28 short gun. The SGS 28 has a swiveling coupler which limits hose bind. Be sure to order it with the Gerni option so that it can be adapted to your hose.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...40277622751391

There is also another kit that includes a wand, if that interests you. (I use the short gun for wheels and the foam cannon, wand for body work)

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...19383957946425





In terms of nozzles, you want a 40-degree tip for general use, I also like having a 25-degree tip for wheel cleaning. For the Gerni 7000, you would probably use the 4.0 orifice (email them before though).



Basic -
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...qc-hydrojet-ss
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...1138c56f&_ss=r

Advanced -
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ully-assembled
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ully-assembled



I'm also going to throw another option at you, and I know it's a bit more than the Gerni, but when looking at the bigger picture, it's actually fantastic value.

https://detailingshed.com.au/products/bigboi-washr-pro

The Big Boi WASHR PRO will flow at 9.5 L/min, has a 13m hose and includes the short gun, wand, nozzle and foam cannon. It doesn't have a hose reel, but that's actually a good thing in my opinion. At $949, it actually $94 cheaper than the Gerni 7000 + MTM Foam Cannon/Gun/Wand package. Not to mention it flowing more.

I could see this being set up on a service cart, the hose would then wind up around the handle. The below pic shows a water filtration system as well, but it gives you the idea..................



Happy to help further if needed. I basically taught myself all this after being so confused by it all when I went and updated my older Karcher. In basic terms though, there is so much out there now to tailor pressure washers for car detailing.

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

First of all, if you haven't already, have a read of this thread I made on pressure washers for car washing -



https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11496392



To summarize, for car washing, you want the highest flow number as possible, not necessarily pressure.



At 8.3 L/min, the Gerni 7000 is actually pretty decent. For reference, a Kranzle K1152 sits at 10 L/min but cost twice the price. The 10m hose should just be enough to get around the car without moving the machine, although 15m is comfortable.



After using an aftermarket short gun for a number of years now, there is a reason why I'm so insistent on fitting these to a pressure washer, they make the whole user experience so much easier!



Considering you are mentioning the MTM Foam cannon, which is the benchmark by the way, I would highly suggest ordering it in kit form, which includes a 40-degree nozzle and the SGS 28 short gun. The SGS 28 has a swiveling coupler which limits hose bind. Be sure to order it with the Gerni option so that it can be adapted to your hose.



https://detailingshed.com.au/product...40277622751391



There is also another kit that includes a wand, if that interests you. (I use the short gun for wheels and the foam cannon, wand for body work)



https://detailingshed.com.au/product...19383957946425



image



image



In terms of nozzles, you want a 40-degree tip for general use, I also like having a 25-degree tip for wheel cleaning. For the Gerni 7000, you would probably use the 4.0 orifice (email them before though).



image



Basic -

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...qc-hydrojet-ss

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...1138c56f&_ss=r



Advanced -

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ully-assembled

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...ully-assembled



image



I'm also going to throw another option at you, and I know it's a bit more than the Gerni, but when looking at the bigger picture, it's actually fantastic value.



https://detailingshed.com.au/products/bigboi-washr-pro



The Big Boi WASHR PRO will flow at 9.5 L/min, has a 13m hose and includes the short gun, wand, nozzle and foam cannon. It doesn't have a hose reel, but that's actually a good thing in my opinion. At $949, it actually $94 cheaper than the Gerni 7000 + MTM Foam Cannon/Gun/Wand package. Not to mention it flowing more.



I could see this being set up on a service cart, the hose would then wind up around the handle. The below pic shows a water filtration system as well, but it gives you the idea..................



image



Happy to help further if needed. I basically taught myself all this after being so confused by it all when I went and updated my older Karcher. In basic terms though, there is so much out there now to tailor pressure washers for car detailing.

Thanks DFB. That is really helpful.
The one reason I'm thinking Gerni is because I can get that at my local Bunnings and I have around $400 worth of Bunnings vouchers that I could burn on it.

I was thinking of getting this gun kit :
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...-premium-kit-2

I already have a foam lance. Two actually. I have the original one from Waxit, and I also have the newer NV foamstorm one. In order to use them with the MTM gun , I'll need to get some 3/8 QC connectors though. I think Waxit does sell that for both of those cannons. That should work right?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

Thanks DFB. That is really helpful.
The one reason I'm thinking Gerni is because I can get that at my local Bunnings and I have around $400 worth of Bunnings vouchers that I could burn on it.

I was thinking of getting this gun kit :
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...-premium-kit-2

I already have a foam lance. Two actually. I have the original one from Waxit, and I also have the newer NV foamstorm one. In order to use them with the MTM gun , I'll need to get some 3/8 QC connectors though. I think Waxit does sell that for both of those cannons. That should work right?

Gotcha.

If you select the Gerni attachment, it will include what is required to adapt the MTM gun to the proprietary Gerni hose outlet.

You would then need two 1/4 Quick Connect plugs to adapt your current foam cannons. (I would also stick with MTM for this part, the generic Waxit ones are crap) -

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...qc-plug-1-4mpt
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...31708944793689



Other options -

MTM SG 35 - avoid, this one lacks the swivel function.

MTM Aqualine SGS 35 - avoid, too bulky/heavy and more expensive.

Mosmatic Original - this is very similar to the SGS 28, just more expensive.

Mosmatic OG Spec - the ultimate. Incrementally better than the SGS 28 and Mosmatic Original. The big benefits are the better quality quick connect fittings and the reduced bulk owing to the integrated swivel fitting. I run this gun and love it.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...veling-sprayer

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Gotcha.



If you select the Gerni attachment, it will include what is required to adapt the MTM gun to the proprietary Gerni hose outlet.



You would then need two 1/4 Quick Connect plugs to adapt your current foam cannons. (I would also stick with MTM for this part, the generic Waxit ones are crap) -



https://detailingshed.com.au/product...qc-plug-1-4mpt

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...31708944793689



image



Other options -



MTM SG 35 - avoid, this one lacks the swivel function.



MTM Aqualine SGS 35 - avoid, too bulky/heavy and more expensive.



Mosmatic Original - this is very similar to the SGS 28, just more expensive.



Mosmatic OG Spec - the ultimate. Incrementally better than the SGS 28 and Mosmatic Original. The big benefits are the better quality quick connect fittings and the reduced bulk owing to the integrated swivel fitting. I run this gun and love it.



https://detailingshed.com.au/product...veling-sprayer



image



image



image

Awesome, thanks for the help. I would have accidentally bought 3/8 ones for the foam cannons never realising they are different top and bottom of the gun.

[bfets]

@DFB FGXR6, have you ever used the new NV stormfoam? I haven't tested mine out yet. I'm still using my Waxit original. The reason I got the second one is so I can have one dedicated to cleaning wheels and keep a permanent brake buster mix ready to go in it.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

@DFB FGXR6, have you ever used the new NV stormfoam? I haven't tested mine out yet. I'm still using my Waxit original. The reason I got the second one is so I can have one dedicated to cleaning wheels and keep a permanent brake buster mix ready to go in it.

I'm assuming this is the one -
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...39998585471065

I run three foam cannons......................



I too have the original Waxit foam cannon, which I tend to dedicate to alkaline or acidic soaps so that I don't accidentally run the wrong soap across the car.



The MTM PF22.2 (latest bottle design) is what I use for general washing.



And I have the older PF22 (older, less stable bottle design) for Brake Buster. Again, the different bottle design helps reduce the risk of mistaken use.



So no, haven't used the newer Waxit foam cannon. The main advantage of the newer design is the more stable bottle with an easier to fill wide neck. If it were me, I would run the older cannon with Brake Buster, the newer one with soap.

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I'm assuming this is the one -

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...39998585471065



I run three foam cannons......................



image



I too have the original Waxit foam cannon, which I tend to dedicate to alkaline or acidic soaps so that I don't accidentally run the wrong soap across the car.



image



The MTM PF22.2 (latest bottle design) is what I use for general washing.



image



And I have the older PF22 (older, less stable bottle design) for Brake Buster. Again, the different bottle design helps reduce the risk of mistaken use.



image



So no, haven't used the newer Waxit foam cannon. The main advantage of the newer design is the more stable bottle with an easier to fill wide neck. If it were me, I would run the older cannon with Brake Buster, the newer one with soap.

Yeah that's the new foam storm one I have. I think that's exactly what I'll be doing. New one for washing, old one for brake buster.

Do you mix fresh every time and rinse all the cannons out everytime? Or do you keep a mix in the canon ready to go for next time? I'm just worried the chemicals will destroy the foam cannon over time if store it like that.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

Yeah that's the new foam storm one I have. I think that's exactly what I'll be doing. New one for washing, old one for brake buster.

Do you mix fresh every time and rinse all the cannons out everytime? Or do you keep a mix in the canon ready to go for next time? I'm just worried the chemicals will destroy the foam cannon over time if store it like that.

With Brake Buster, I use it at 100% in the cannon bottle. In theory, I really should be removing the chemical from the bottle and rinsing out the foam cannon.......................but I don't. You probably should though, Brake Buster is very harsh.

For soap, I once left the remainder of the mixture in the bottle, which is less of an issue compared to Brake Buster. However, I have got into the habit of emptying what's left from foaming the car into my wash bucket. This means I start fresh each time. There is some suggestion that the minerals in the water have the ability to reduce the foaming capability when left for an extended period.

[bfets]

@DFB FGXR6 what do you think of Gyeon Wet Coat? I've been given a bottle to try. Haven't had time to use it yet but might give it a go on the weekend

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

@DFB FGXR6 what do you think of Gyeon Wet Coat? I've been given a bottle to try. Haven't had time to use it yet but might give it a go on the weekend

On my cars, I only use Wet Coat on wheels, exhaust tips and grills.



I will use it as a rinse aid on customer cars that don't already have some sort of protection on it. This makes drying easier, boosts gloss and adds something to the paint quickly and easily.



Overall, like similar spray and rinse products, Wet Coat is a brilliant product. Don't expect longevity, but the application is so simple and quick that it doesn't really matter. I also like to avoid direct application on glass as it can leave a streaky finish.

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

On my cars, I only use Wet Coat on wheels, exhaust tips and grills.



image



I will use it as a rinse aid on customer cars that don't already have some sort of protection on it. This makes drying easier, boosts gloss and adds something to the paint quickly and easily.



image



Overall, like similar spray and rinse products, Wet Coat is a brilliant product. Don't expect longevity, but the application is so simple and quick that it doesn't really matter. I also like to avoid direct application on glass as it can leave a streaky finish.

Thanks, I'll give it a go.

How do you normally prep a car with a paint sealant or wax on there in order to try a new wax or sealant?

I've been using a strip wash like NV Snow plus and then some Carpro Eraser prior to applying the new product. Just not sure if that's what other people do.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

Thanks, I'll give it a go.

How do you normally prep a car with a paint sealant or wax on there in order to try a new wax or sealant?

I've been using a strip wash like NV Snow plus and then some Carpro Eraser prior to applying the new product. Just not sure if that's what other people do.

That is what I would do as well.