Car Detailing - What products are your go to? - Page 31

anobserver · 06-02-2022, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I have and continue to think about making You Tube content. I am very self conscious, even around people that know me personally, so it would have me most definitely off camera....

Hey dfb,

We hear you and some of us share your views. Its about the content and it can be done.

Would you consider other approaches, like an over the shoulder shot, or side angles? Where you talk to the viewers and they can see your hands and what you're doing, and the content is the focus.

Personally, i dislike videos where the presenter is front and centre and talks endlessly. I watch to see content, not the presenter. You could be a bit mysterious, like Wilson from Tim the Toolmans Home Improvement, where we never saw his face.

https://youtu.be/7aPa0cOrpwI

Id encourage you to give it some thought. You come across as knowledgeable, genuine and your obvious passion shines through. I think those factors alone would appeal to a lot of enthusiasts.

CyberWasp · 04-02-2022, 08:32 PM

I can't talk either, I have ideas also on all different types of topics, but wouldn't want to jump in front of a camera either.
I believe your passion at what you like and what you do would shine through. Your half way there already in the work you do setting up to take the photos ect.

I have posted this guy before who cleans the dirtiest cars people can chuck at him on his you tube channel. He only does 1 a week which can take up to 2 days to clean.
He now has his own product line & merch, and is in the process of building a ground up studio / detailing garage to film future episodes in.
To me there is nothing wrong with what he has now.
Here is the latest update, so you can see the scale of what he has achieved off YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXeB_LMig_4

**DFB FGXR6** · 04-02-2022, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

I can't talk either, I have ideas also on all different types of topics, but wouldn't want to jump in front of a camera either.
I believe your passion at what you like and what you do would shine through. Your half way there already in the work you do setting up to take the photos ect.

I have posted this guy before who cleans the dirtiest cars people can chuck at him on his you tube channel. He only does 1 a week which can take up to 2 days to clean.
He now has his own product line & merch, and is in the process of building a ground up studio / detailing garage to film future episodes in.
To me there is nothing wrong with what he has now.
Here is the latest update, so you can see the scale of what he has achieved off YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXeB_LMig_4

I have been watching his content for a while now. At risk of sounding hypocritical, I have started to find his video's pretty repetitive and predictable. Pouring the dirty water down the drain and saying "gross" every single time is getting old.

That said, I have learnt a few tricks from him.

CyberWasp · 05-02-2022, 08:37 PM

Yes I agree.
I am just amazed at what these people seem to generate in income.
The hard part is coming up with another spin or angle that hasn't already been done.

**DFB FGXR6** · 05-02-2022, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

Yes I agree.
I am just amazed at what these people seem to generate in income.
The hard part is coming up with another spin or angle that hasn't already been done.

I guess now he is using mostly "his" products?

I say "his" because they are almost certainly made by the same company responsible for many mainstream brands, and a lot of other private label lines. The bottle and sprayers look extremely similar to the Adam's line up. Adam's products are made by B&B Blending, so it's more than likely Detail Geek Car Care comes from B&B as well.

**pwr4ce** · 05-02-2022, 09:22 PM

First run on the Shine Mate EX610 this weekend certainly had is work cut out on 1996 paint.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**fordomatic** · 06-02-2022, 10:50 AM

Let’s talk drying towels, I need to buy another couple, what do you use?

Previously used:
Aquatouch old mate, dries well, difficult to wring out
Supercell drying towel, dries well but weirdly feels rough, is falling apart after 6 months

**FormulaFG** · 06-02-2022, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Let’s talk drying towels, I need to buy another couple, what do you use?

Previously used:
Aquatouch old mate, dries well, difficult to wring out
Supercell drying towel, dries well but weirdly feels rough, is falling apart after 6 months

Waffle weave towels are awesome.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...e-drying-towel

People will rave about the Bowdens Big Green Sucker but I personally wasn't a fan.

Bossxr8 · 06-02-2022, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FormulaFG

Waffle weave towels are awesome.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...e-drying-towel

People will rave about the Bowdens Big Green Sucker but I personally wasn't a fan.

I’m not much of a fan of the big green sucker either. After doing half the car it’s already soaked. Really need 2 or 3 of them to do the job.

**DFB FGXR6** · 06-02-2022, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Let’s talk drying towels, I need to buy another couple, what do you use?

Previously used:
Aquatouch old mate, dries well, difficult to wring out
Supercell drying towel, dries well but weirdly feels rough, is falling apart after 6 months

I had the same experience with the Supercell, as you say it has a very odd feel to it. A lot of that comes down to the twist loop design of the weave. I also find it just too big for how I dry a car.

The two drying towels I grab the most at the moment are the Rag Company FTW's and their Gauntlet.

Which one you choose will be down to how you dry your car. If you use a blower to remove water before using a towel, the smaller FTW's are going to be up your alley. You will probably need 2 - 4 depending on your needs.

https://carcareco.com.au/product/the...l-40cm-x-40cm/

The Gauntlet is made in several sizes. I have the small 30x30cm for wheels, and use the medium 38x60cm for drying. There are also larger sizes if you want to dry without using a blower.

https://carcareco.com.au/product/the...-drying-towel/

Both of these are twist loop towels but are much nicer to use than the Supercell.

Another towel I like is the Tempest JNR from Waxit, the smaller version though. This is similar to the Big Green Sucker, but in a more manageable size.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/te...ant=1102839984

MDS87 · 08-02-2022, 05:18 PM

Hi DFB,

I've been lurking these forums for a while and your detailing knowledge is one of the main reasons I decided to make an account. Love your collection of cars too!

Is there anything I can use to get hard water marks off glass? I seem to remember something about this contained in your Show N Shine thread but I can't for the life of me remember what page this was on.

Thanks!

**DFB FGXR6** · 08-02-2022, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MDS87

Hi DFB,

I've been lurking these forums for a while and your detailing knowledge is one of the main reasons I decided to make an account. Love your collection of cars too!

Is there anything I can use to get hard water marks off glass? I seem to remember something about this contained in your Show N Shine thread but I can't for the life of me remember what page this was on.

Thanks!

Hello and welcome, that's awesome you have joined after reading on the sidelines.

As I have mentioned in the past, glass polishing takes a different approach to paint. Normally with paint, you would start with the least intrusive method and work up from there. Glass on the other hand is much harder and requires more aggressive compounds to see an effective difference.

First of all though, you could try a water spot remover such as CarPro Spotless. These sort of acidic chemicals help to break down the mineral deposits that have caused the spotting. You can also make you own by mixing water and white vinegar 50/50.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ver-50ml-500ml

If you have no luck with that, you are then going to need to polish the glass. Any polishing compound with decent levels of cut can be used, however CarPro CeriGlass is what you want.

CeriGlass is specifically designed for the harder surface glass presents. It is available in kit form or by itself.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...r&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...rpro-ceriglass

I would recommend the kit as it includes a hand applicator which you will definitely need. Even if you decide to use a machine polisher, the hand applicator is able to get into the edges of side windows that a polisher wont.

I would also say to order some Rayon glass pads, these are better at managing heat, important when dealing with glass, and are much thinner a traditional polishing pad.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-velcro-75-130

You will also want to tape around the glass to prevent ruining the rubber trims.

Polished glass is wonderful, you will be surprised at how much rubbish is bonded to the glass over time.

**pwr4ce** · 08-02-2022, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Hello and welcome, that's awesome you have joined after reading on the sidelines.

As I have mentioned in the past, glass polishing takes a different approach to paint. Normally with paint, you would start with the least intrusive method and work up from there. Glass on the other hand is much harder and requires more aggressive compounds to see an effective difference.

First of all though, you could try a water spot remover such as CarPro Spotless. These sort of acidic chemicals help to break down the mineral deposits that have caused the spotting. You can also make you own by mixing water and white vinegar 50/50.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ver-50ml-500ml

If you have no luck with that, you are then going to need to polish the glass. Any polishing compound with decent levels of cut can be used, however CarPro CeriGlass is what you want.

CeriGlass is specifically designed for the harder surface glass presents. It is available in kit form or by itself.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...r&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...rpro-ceriglass

I would recommend the kit as it includes a hand applicator which you will definitely need. Even if you decide to use a machine polisher, the hand applicator is able to get into the edges of side windows that a polisher wont.

I would also say to order some Rayon glass pads, these are better at managing heat, important when dealing with glass, and are much thinner a traditional polishing pad.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-velcro-75-130

image

image

You will also want to tape around the glass to prevent ruining the rubber trims.

image

image

Polished glass is wonderful, you will be surprised at how much rubbish is bonded to the glass over time.

I hit the VS Commodore over the weekend as part of my detail with Meguiars glass polish applied with the Shinemate DA polisher - wow what a difference it made to 26 year old glass !

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Top_Ghia · 08-02-2022, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Hello and welcome, that's awesome you have joined after reading on the sidelines.

As I have mentioned in the past, glass polishing takes a different approach to paint. Normally with paint, you would start with the least intrusive method and work up from there. Glass on the other hand is much harder and requires more aggressive compounds to see an effective difference.

First of all though, you could try a water spot remover such as CarPro Spotless. These sort of acidic chemicals help to break down the mineral deposits that have caused the spotting. You can also make you own by mixing water and white vinegar 50/50.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ver-50ml-500ml

If you have no luck with that, you are then going to need to polish the glass. Any polishing compound with decent levels of cut can be used, however CarPro CeriGlass is what you want.

CeriGlass is specifically designed for the harder surface glass presents. It is available in kit form or by itself.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...r&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...rpro-ceriglass

I would recommend the kit as it includes a hand applicator which you will definitely need. Even if you decide to use a machine polisher, the hand applicator is able to get into the edges of side windows that a polisher wont.

I would also say to order some Rayon glass pads, these are better at managing heat, important when dealing with glass, and are much thinner a traditional polishing pad.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-velcro-75-130

image

image

You will also want to tape around the glass to prevent ruining the rubber trims.

image

image

Polished glass is wonderful, you will be surprised at how much rubbish is bonded to the glass over time.

Can I ask if you set up these photo shoots every time someone asks a specific question? Or do you have a huge back catalog of detailing photos with just about every product on earth?

**pwr4ce** · 06-02-2022, 07:38 PM

A weekend of paint correction and detailing of a 1996 Commodore that’s never been touched. Loads of scratches/ swirls and stone chips. Thanks to Shinemate Ex610 and a variety of products to get to this stage ( much left to do but she’s in better shape than 3 days ago)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**DFB FGXR6** · 06-02-2022, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwr4ce

A weekend of paint correction and detailing of a 1996 Commodore that’s never been touched. Loads of scratches/ swirls and stone chips. Thanks to Shinemate Ex610 and a variety of products to get to this stage ( much left to do but she’s in better shape than 3 days ago)
image
image
image
image

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like new!

**pwr4ce** · 06-02-2022, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Looks like new!

Yep - the DA polisher worked a treat - got a lot of swirls and scratches out of the paint. The bonnet is a bit of a mess though - looks like some heavy staining and stone chips - might get this resprayed - did my best and quite happy with the outcome - thanks for creating this post and content- it’s been very useful in this project

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CyberWasp · 06-02-2022, 08:01 PM

Which product and pads did you use to achieve that excellent result?

**pwr4ce** · 06-02-2022, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

Which product and pads did you use to achieve that excellent result?

All from Waxit - Shinemate DA polisher and Scholls compounds. Had to hit it with a heavy cut to eliminate 26 years worth of swirls and scratches- but the effort was worth it

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

T3rminator · 06-02-2022, 09:23 PM

Add me to the list of those not impressed with the big green sucker. If I bought it at full price I would really feel like a big sucker. Mine now just spreads water rather than absorb. I have to go over the same spot 3 times to get it somewhat dry. I find drenching it, then wringing it, then wiping to be more effective than just wiping when the towel is dry. Why is that?

It does hold water well when it absorbs. I can do a whole sedan and only have to wring it once.

Keen to give the waffle weave towels a go.

Can you use ANY waffle weave towel? Target has the waffle cotton bamboo bath towels going for $18

I was looking at those waffle weave towels on the detailingshed.com.au, but the shipping costs more than the product

**DFB FGXR6** · 06-02-2022, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T3rminator

Add me to the list of those not impressed with the big green sucker. If I bought it at full price I would really feel like a big sucker. Mine now just spreads water rather than absorb. I have to go over the same spot 3 times to get it somewhat dry. I find drenching it, then wringing it, then wiping to be more effective than just wiping when the towel is dry. Why is that?

It does hold water well when it absorbs. I can do a whole sedan and only have to wring it once.

Keen to give the waffle weave towels a go.

Can you use ANY waffle weave towel? Target has the waffle cotton bamboo bath towels going for $18

I was looking at those waffle weave towels on the detailingshed.com.au, but the shipping costs more than the product

My biggest gripe with the Big Green Sucker is it's size, it can be a bit cumbersome.

A couple of suggestions regarding using these sort of towels.

1/ Microfiber drying towels are used differently to what many would be used to coming from a Chamois. For best results, use one towel to absorb the bulk of the water, then follow up with a smaller second towel to remove any residual water. This way you are not fighting against the one towel expecting it to remove water and leave the paint completely dry. You will spend more time attempting to do it with one towel and/or trying to wring it out over and over.

2/ The easiest way to remove water after a wash is to use a leaf blower or a hand held tradesman's blower to drive the bulk of the water from the surface. Again, the time used to do this is then saved by not having to use multiple towels or wringing out a chamois. Using this method, I can dry an entire car with one small 40x40xm towel.

3/ Use a drying aid! This provides lubrication, provides something to "prime" your drying towel to help with absorption and also, in some cases, can help water to "flash" off which helps avoid streaking.

I would also recommend watching these two video's to see what I mean by using drying aids, combined with the two towel method -

Skip to the 10.00 min mark -

Skip to the 6.00 min mark -

T3rminator · 06-02-2022, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

My biggest gripe with the Big Green Sucker is it's size, it can be a bit cumbersome.

A couple of suggestions regarding using these sort of towels.

1/ Microfiber drying towels are used differently to what many would be used to coming from a Chamois. For best results, use one towel to absorb the bulk of the water, then follow up with a smaller second towel to remove any residual water. This way you are not fighting against the one towel expecting it to remove water and leave the paint completely dry. You will spend more time attempting to do it with one towel and/or trying to wring it out over and over.

2/ The easiest way to remove water after a wash is to use a leaf blower or a hand held tradesman's blower to drive the bulk of the water from the surface. Again, the time used to do this is then saved by not having to use multiple towels or wringing out a chamois. Using this method, I can dry an entire car with one small 40x40xm towel.

3/ Use a drying aid! This provides lubrication, provides something to "prime" your drying towel to help with absorption and also, in some cases, can help water to "flash" off which helps avoid streaking.
................

Dang! Didn't realise there was a whole science to it

Leaf blower, what a great idea!!

Will give that a go, would need to be careful not to blow dirt back onto it

Top_Ghia · 06-02-2022, 10:27 PM

I don’t mind the big green sucker. But I usually use one smaller towel to move the bulk of the water off.
I then use After Glow as a drying aid on the big green sucker and it works pretty well.
A proper blow dryer is on my shopping list though. Maybe 2022 will be the year.

**DFB FGXR6** · 06-02-2022, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

I don’t mind the big green sucker. But I usually use one smaller towel to move the bulk of the water off.
I then use After Glow as a drying aid on the big green sucker and it works pretty well.
A proper blow dryer is on my shopping list though. Maybe 2022 will be the year.

I think many expect to use a microfiber drying towel exactly how they have used a leather or synthetic chamois. Once you grasp that don't want or need to be wringing the towel out, you will be drying your car quicker and safer.

For perspective, I started out at age of 14 using a Meguiar's Chamois.

I moved to the blue Waxit waffle weaves when my XR6 arrived in mid-2008.

I then transitioned to the plush Tempest and BGS towels.

I'm now using mostly twist-loop microfiber towels as pictured a few posts back.

**DFB FGXR6** · 07-02-2022, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

I don’t mind the big green sucker. But I usually use one smaller towel to move the bulk of the water off.
I then use After Glow as a drying aid on the big green sucker and it works pretty well.
A proper blow dryer is on my shopping list though. Maybe 2022 will be the year.

Some links for your browsing pleasure.........

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ers-and-dryers

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...yers-blowers-1

I have the Big Boi Pro 4 -

There is also an updated version called the Pro+ with a longer hose and remote controls located on the hand grip.

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...gboi-blowr-pro

Top_Ghia · 08-02-2022, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Some links for your browsing pleasure.........

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ers-and-dryers

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...yers-blowers-1

I have the Big Boi Pro 4 -

image

There is also an updated version called the Pro+ with a longer hose and remote controls located on the hand grip.

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...gboi-blowr-pro

image

Do you use yours? Or do you just grab a leaf blower because it’s easier?

**DFB FGXR6** · 08-02-2022, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

Do you use yours? Or do you just grab a leaf blower because it’s easier?

I use it for almost every single detail, only occasionally will I grab my battery powered Stihl, and even then I wish I had just spent the extra 30 seconds to get out the Big Boi.

The smaller outlet housing focuses the air better and makes it more efficient at driving water off the paint or from behind mirrors and grills. In cooler weather, the heating function speeds the evaporation of water...........and keeps your hands warm. Some don't like the hose and cord aspect but I adapted quickly and would not be without one now.

That said, unless you really like to detail your car, or are doing many cars each week, a good leaf blower is more than sufficient. If you do decide to get one, I would say just get the biggest one to maximize the effectiveness.

ford12 · 06-02-2022, 10:47 PM

What is this bead maker he talks about ?

H4ZE · 06-02-2022, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ford12

What is this bead maker he talks about ?

It's a spray on, wipe off sealant. But it's bloody awesome, I'm about to do an order for a bulk pack after almost finishing off my first bottle.
Basically, whatever wax/ceramic/graphene coating you use (or even don't use at all) it goes on over the top of it- best way to describe it is that it "boosts" whatever you've got on there. I use it on paint, black plastics, wheels, glass, pretty much everything.

Matt from Obsessed Garage can often come off as borderline eccentric, and his monotone can be a bit hard to properly enjoy his videos sometimes- but he calls a spade a spade and he knows his stuff. and his reaction to Bead Maker was the reason why I pulled the trigger on a bottle in the first place.

**DFB FGXR6** · 06-02-2022, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ford12

What is this bead maker he talks about ?

As mentioned, Bead Maker is a spray sealant mostly used as a drying aid. I also use it when I detail other peoples cars, it's a very quick and easy way to add protection and gloss.

https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...99fe5f90&_ss=r
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...18399576195129
https://carcareco.com.au/product/bea...nt-protectant/

I was late to the Bead Maker train, but it has become a staple in my cabinet.