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Old 28-01-2008, 12:53 AM   #61
Geoff EL 4.0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XCSEDAN
standard one would turn to 14000 with an 11x7 if you REALLY pushed it (i'm talking full throttle vertical dive here for say 300 feet?), this had a lot of porting done, compression raised, a custom race pipe and it needed a certain prop too (it used to change pitch as the rpm/load varied due to its crappy english engineering hahaha)
this engine was STRICTLY for pylon only. and like i said needed a rebuild every 15 flights MAX.
was a really touchy engine, was a bit of fun to screw round with though.

next time we will do an ervine.

i've just pulled up the stock AX page for you to look at ;)
http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg0547.html
the website says they do more then 14000rpm but geez... can't see it happening unless you were running a 9x5 or similar.
Stock Number: OSMG0547
Displacement: 0.455 cu in (7.5 cc)
Bore: 0.866 in (22.0 mm)
Stroke: 0.772 in (19.6 mm)
Practical rpm: 2,000-17,000
Output: 1.65 hp @ 16,000 rpm
Weight w/muffler: 17.2 oz (489 g)
Includes: #A3 glow plug, E-3010 muffler
Requires: glow fuel, prop
Recommended Props: 10.5x6, 11x6-8, 12x6-7

It has Even bigger props than you are talking about, i think you have your facts wrong
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Old 28-01-2008, 01:01 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff EL 4.0
Stock Number: OSMG0547
Displacement: 0.455 cu in (7.5 cc)
Bore: 0.866 in (22.0 mm)
Stroke: 0.772 in (19.6 mm)
Practical rpm: 2,000-17,000
Output: 1.65 hp @ 16,000 rpm
Weight w/muffler: 17.2 oz (489 g)
Includes: #A3 glow plug, E-3010 muffler
Requires: glow fuel, prop
Recommended Props: 10.5x6, 11x6-8, 12x6-7

It has Even bigger props than you are talking about, i think you have your facts wrong
errr no, how about you go use one of those motors ey?
i have been flying for 13 years. and have been using OS motors the whole time (tried others wasn't at all happy with them). there is no way in hell you could get a stock 46AX to turn to 17,000 with any of the props reccomended. not unless you geared the shaft to reduce prop RPM.

these engines just dont rev like that, they aren't like the little car motors at all, glow tempts, combustion chamber shape, ring (or in this case piston) to liner clearence isn't as fine, also there is more load on an aeroplane motor then on a car engine due to the weight of the prop, gravity, pitch etc
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Old 28-01-2008, 01:15 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff EL 4.0
Well if you have a look at my piston and sleeve pics there is nothing wrong with them and i have been doing that techneque the whole time i have had this car, when its running i give it a good thrashing .
yeah man that may work sweet for you, my way just seems to work for me and others who use it ;)
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Old 28-01-2008, 01:16 AM   #64
Geoff EL 4.0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XCSEDAN
errr no, how about you go use one of those motors ey?
i have been flying for 13 years. and have been using OS motors the whole time (tried others wasn't at all happy with them). there is no way in hell you could get a stock 46AX to turn to 17,000 with any of the props reccomended. not unless you geared the shaft to reduce prop RPM.

these engines just dont rev like that, they aren't like the little car motors at all, glow tempts, combustion chamber shape, ring (or in this case piston) to liner clearence isn't as fine, also there is more load on an aeroplane motor then on a car engine due to the weight of the prop, gravity, pitch etc
so aeroplane is prop,gravity,pitch. ok well gravity is on everything and the planes wings are angled to hold it up. My truck has friction on the road, the power gets transfered through at least 3 areas before reaching the wheels, and weighs 5.6kg made out of metal and thick plastic and not as light as the planes that are made out of bolsa wood,it doesnt have the shafts and gearboxes making it heavyier.It still revs up to 30,000rpm easy.Any other reasons why it wont rev? It has 2.9cc more than my truck,
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Old 28-01-2008, 01:34 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff EL 4.0
so aeroplane is prop,gravity,pitch. ok well gravity is on everything and the planes wings are angled to hold it up. My truck has friction on the road, the power gets transfered through at least 3 areas before reaching the wheels, and weighs 5.6kg made out of metal and thick plastic and not as light as the planes that are made out of bolsa wood,it doesnt have the shafts and gearboxes making it heavyier.It still revs up to 30,000rpm easy.Any other reasons why it wont rev? It has 2.9cc more than my truck,
aeroplanes pull a lot of G's mate as in 15+ EASY on certain models models
put it to you this way (might make a bit more sense), if you pick a plane up, and let go of it, what happens? falls straight onto the ground and most likely breaks.
but if the plane has an AIRSPEED of say 30km/h then yes it will fly, but the prop has to keep it going that fast hence load)
another reason to hold it back from revving is the weight of the moving parts, 2.9cc is more then 1/3 of the engines size which means there is probaly an extra 20% minimum internal weight added, the mass of air/fuel the piston has to compress is higher which means more work for the engine, also what stroke does your motor have? also, as you said, you have a GEARBOX, giving you multiple drive ratios to work with launching, my RC truck is only 1speed and it launches like crap.
an aeroplane has only one drive ratio (99% of the time anyways) and that is 1:1
also aeroplane engines are not designed to rev there tits off, they need the bottom end torque to get the plane moving and keep it moving.

your engine is designed to scream mate, not like aeroplane engines which are designed to have more bottom end as i said.

Last edited by XCSEDAN; 28-01-2008 at 01:53 AM.
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Old 28-01-2008, 02:19 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XCSEDAN
aeroplanes pull a lot of G's mate as in 15+ EASY on certain models models
put it to you this way (might make a bit more sense), if you pick a plane up, and let go of it, what happens? falls straight onto the ground and most likely breaks.
but if the plane has an AIRSPEED of say 30km/h then yes it will fly, but the prop has to keep it going that fast hence load)
another reason to hold it back from revving is the weight of the moving parts, 2.9cc is more then 1/3 of the engines size which means there is probaly an extra 20% minimum internal weight added, the mass of air/fuel the piston has to compress is higher which means more work for the engine, also what stroke does your motor have? also, as you said, you have a GEARBOX, giving you multiple drive ratios to work with launching, my RC truck is only 1speed and it launches like crap.
an aeroplane has only one drive ratio (99% of the time anyways) and that is 1:1
also aeroplane engines are not designed to rev there tits off, they need the bottom end torque to get the plane moving and keep it moving.

your engine is designed to scream mate, not like aeroplane engines which are designed to have more bottom end as i said.
The day someone finds specs on the GXR28 let me know, ive been tracking them down for at least a year. i only know it has 4.6cc because its on the box, btw this thing has 3 slipper clutches there not the go
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Old 28-01-2008, 11:40 AM   #67
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They all look great, I have a collection of Losi cars at the moment a Muggy, LST2 & a Eight buggy that I had to build. We are also building a track in the next month will post some pics of my small fleet soon.
Has anyone had any experiances with the TL Muggy?
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Old 28-01-2008, 12:55 PM   #68
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i'll have a look mate ;)
is this your truck btw?
http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=45914
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Old 28-01-2008, 12:59 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XCSEDAN
i'll have a look mate ;)
is this your truck btw?
http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=45914
yer the same car thats in the pics i posted earlier, im going to go to the hobby shop and ask them to ask the wholesaler for the full specs on the motor, i dont even know what brand it is, i guess kyosho but ill "try" and find out thursday when the wholesaler comes to the hobby shop. Man stuffs cheap over in the states : i paid more than double that
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Old 28-01-2008, 05:19 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff EL 4.0
My car did that as well, it was because a belt had come off completly, i was lucky enough to have found it in the spot i was doing donuts on the dirt :evil3: . Check the belt that goes through the middle of car and see if its still there.They are all loose that just how they are, you can buy tensioners for them but i never bothered.If their both on the car then i suggest that u check the connections that come off the diff and line up and tighten the allen key screws, they are the problem 80% of the time.Simple things.Im not sure if you will be able to understand that as i cant really myself so here a pic, theres an allen key on the metal connection that grabs onto the axel, give that a try.
[img]https://
Mines Loose as well and always has been



Just like to add that i have good knowledge of nitro cars/trucks and if anybody needs help with them just post up in here and i will try to help, off topic but doesnt matter.

My cousin has exactly the same one but with different wheels
thanks for the reply mate,

nah had heaps of troubles with those things that attach onto the axle's through the diffs. i fixed them so there is no chance them coming off again.

the close up of the belt, that belt is fine, i think the issue is with the long one that goes through the car. its on the gears/cogs so i dunno wtf the problem is. ill keep perservering.
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Old 29-01-2008, 07:16 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XCSEDAN
the engines seize because the bearings rust due to the methanol and nitro corroding the hardened coating.
when i store a motor i NEVER run it dry, why do you ask? BECAUSE THE OIL IS IN THE DAMN FUEL!!! so say your turning a motor over at... 2000rpm, when it runs out of fuel it runs out of oil too. extreme wear on every moving compent on the inside. (end journal(s), main journals, rings/piston, liner etc)
now what i do with mine is, i run them close to empty, then leave take the head off, and heat the engine up in the oven to 50*c (thus evaporating all methanol and nitro).
i then poor oil over the piston, then i put the head back on, and put oil down the carby and turn the engine over by hand until i can feel the oil working its way in.
Have you tried after run oil? It's designed specifically for this, all you need to do is take the glow plug out and squirt some into the barrel. Also a few drops through the carby and turn the engine over a few times to coat everything. Works well on the Kyosho .21 I have. It's available from hobby shops
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Old 29-01-2008, 11:52 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean C
They all look great, I have a collection of Losi cars at the moment a Muggy, LST2 & a Eight buggy that I had to build. We are also building a track in the next month will post some pics of my small fleet soon.
Has anyone had any experiances with the TL Muggy?
If you want a truggy then look at the Losi Eight-T instead of the muggy. All the reports I read on lstforums about the muggy didnt sound that great. Mates of mine have the Jammin CRT and the Mugen MBX5T truggy and they both go hard!

The Eight buggies are awesome - I was almost going to get one before I decided I really wasn't that into racing nitro stuff and was happier to just have a fang at a BMX track now and then.
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Old 29-01-2008, 06:49 PM   #73
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More RC then i can count

Truck I have a Savage 4.6SS - http://www.stfocus.net/photography/r...cing/savage46/

Rest of my Cars - http://www.stfocus.net/photography/rccars/

They range from 1/8th Trucks, to 1/46th Scale Micro Losi's
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Old 29-01-2008, 08:51 PM   #74
Geoff EL 4.0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xbcoupe384
Have you tried after run oil? It's designed specifically for this, all you need to do is take the glow plug out and squirt some into the barrel. Also a few drops through the carby and turn the engine over a few times to coat everything. Works well on the Kyosho .21 I have. It's available from hobby shops
DO NOT run after run oil, im not having a go its just that the kyosho wholesaler told me that the stuff ruins your engine and that u should use "singer oil" its for sewing machines and industrial things. ive used in it my truck until i ran out and u can start the engine with it still in(not alot though..) thats just what i got told by the kyosho wholesaler and am passing it on to you.
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Old 29-01-2008, 11:24 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xbcoupe384
Have you tried after run oil? It's designed specifically for this, all you need to do is take the glow plug out and squirt some into the barrel. Also a few drops through the carby and turn the engine over a few times to coat everything. Works well on the Kyosho .21 I have. It's available from hobby shops
nah mate, never bothered, we mix our own fuel so there's always oil around ;)
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Old 03-02-2008, 04:19 PM   #76
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Default This is my monster truck

Just brought my self a 1/8th scale Savage 4.6 'Big Block'
.28 ci

Havent run it...yet. I have a few 1/10th cars, never a monster truck before, they are BIG.

Also a few of the rest of the family...
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File Type: jpg blue car.jpg (138.0 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg truck.jpg (123.2 KB, 42 views)
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:01 PM   #77
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I have a 1:10 truck that i have built but havn't fired it up to see if it runs or not and i have a one of the pirtek 1:10 cars. Also have a unpainted XY 1:10 top but i'm not sure how to paint it.
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Old 07-03-2008, 05:30 PM   #78
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Hi all

heres a clip of mine

tr15 inferno

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLUCcSTDbmI

Cheers

Dan
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Old 07-03-2008, 07:17 PM   #79
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Heres my losi xxx-t and my traxxas e-maxx.





Im selling them if anyone is interested?

The emaxx has had a few updrades in the stering servo , bulkheads, shock towers, tires, center drivetrain.

The losi has had heaps of upgrades, main ones gt-x speedo, high speed stering servo, reedy krypton 10x2 modified motor, and nearly everything graphite.

heaps of extras
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