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OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS

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Old 21-12-2006, 09:45 AM   #61
Polyal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gubas
Nah, im talken about this one.

Click Linky
Paddles mightn't be as hard as it sounds.

AU T series had the ESS, so perhaps you could adapt that somehow?
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Old 21-12-2006, 10:06 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polyal
Paddles mightn't be as hard as it sounds.

AU T series had the ESS, so perhaps you could adapt that somehow?
LOL. Just re-wire the stalks.
To gear up, squirt water on the winscreen, to gear down, flash your headlights
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Old 21-12-2006, 10:16 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gubas
LOL. Just re-wire the stalks.
To gear up, squirt water on the winscreen, to gear down, flash your headlights
lmao! I love it!
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Old 21-12-2006, 12:18 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gubas
LOL. Just re-wire the stalks.
To gear up, squirt water on the winscreen, to gear down, flash your headlights
LOL. How funny would that be!
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Old 21-12-2006, 01:04 PM   #65
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Well I won't offer any advice on fresh motor/auto versus finding what's wrong with the current motor, since I have NFI, but auto + paddles would be easy enough ;)

The shifter circuit has three sensors, one is "hold", one is "+", one is "-". Each sensor is activated when the shifter is passed over it (the shifter has a magnet on it, and when flicked into a certain position it will activate the specific sensor). For example, flicking the shifter to go from 2nd to 3rd causes the magnet to pass over the "+" sensor which happens to be placed where you, well, flick it!

If the shifter circuit from a BA shifter is replicated from a finger-sized board into two "separate" circuits either side of the steering wheel, paddles with magnets on the back could be used in place of a BA shifter. All you'd need is a switch to "hold" the gears/"activate" the paddles, but I'm sure the Power/Econ button could be rewired for this (or have the "hold" sensor stashed/wired below the button and a magnet on the button so when it's flicked to Power it goes into SSS/paddle mode?).

Does this jargon make sense?
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Old 21-12-2006, 05:26 PM   #66
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I vote fix it and keep it on the road.

WTF is the point in even having it if you're going to in a permanent process of upgrading everything and keeping it off the road. I just wanna see it on the road and at cruises, I think you're just avoiding driving it because of the inevitable EPA/TMU issues that we all have with our cars.

WGAF, fix the noise and drive the ######.

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Old 21-12-2006, 05:59 PM   #67
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steve, i wish you the best in what you want to do with YOUR money and YOUR car (something people on here dont seem to realise), but i gotta say dont get it.

I think your avoiding getting it on the road will mean you never have to face the cops, or deal with the standard niggly issues everyone haves in making a car streetable. but i ask - whats the point of having this thing off the road for another 3 months? you can chase power until the cows come home, but at the end of the day you have to be content at some point - otherwise its a perpeptual waste of money with no enjoyment.

at the end of the day, the whole reason we spend money on these things is because we want to enjoy the end result... despite all of the other things that go on (for example, my EF is off the road, ~$3500 damage to the rear 1/4 because some fvckhead mixed up his pedals)... if you keep it off the road, it will be perfect in your mind forever, but where's the fun in that?

anyway... as i said, best of luck with it all.

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Old 21-12-2006, 06:50 PM   #68
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The last two posts........Damn straight.
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Old 21-12-2006, 07:03 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sphell
The last two posts........Damn straight.
The last 3 posts, absolutely!
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Old 21-12-2006, 08:04 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galapogos01
steve, i wish you the best in what you want to do with YOUR money and YOUR car (something people on here dont seem to realise)
I think that statement sums up my point of view nicely....Nuff said....
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Old 21-12-2006, 08:49 PM   #71
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Wheel switches for the BTR have been around for ages, you don't have to reinvent the wheel. I remember seeing an ad in Street machine or something ages ago, called "transwitch" or something like that, which did exactly what you guys are talking about, had the steering wheel levers and everything.

Can't remember prices or anything else about it though.

I want to see skid pics dammit!!!
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Old 22-12-2006, 01:03 AM   #72
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and we all want to see crash pics rollin
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Old 22-12-2006, 01:46 AM   #73
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AFD is cancelled steve, we've got over a year to get it done
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Old 22-12-2006, 01:47 AM   #74
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Hmm paddles sound like a cool idea, but it's not something i'd really bother with at this time. Despite what many people on here think, i just want the car on the road quicksmart and reliable, so stuffing around with paddles on the steering column is just setting the car back even further.

Pretty much straight after new years the engine and gearbox are coming out. I have already made enough money to cover one of the rebuilds, with alot of gear yet to be sold (i already have people interested in these items aswell). Some of you guys are really overeacting with my decision, the car was coming off the road sooner or later to do this, so i decided sooner. I've waited two years so far, what's an extra two months gunna hurt.
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Old 22-12-2006, 01:58 AM   #75
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I think a lot of people are under the impression steve doesn't wanna drive it.
Steve wants the EA outa his garage, he wants to drive it, he wants to enjoy it, but he also doesn't want to be driving it for a month, then working on it for a few months, then driving it again for a few mmonths, then working on it again.

on top of that, he's not asking for advice here, he's decided what to do and its going ahead.
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Old 22-12-2006, 02:02 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EFFalcon
AFD is cancelled steve, we've got over a year to get it done
Yer i'm spewin about that, hopefully i can sum up the enthusiam to get the car finished, but hang on, if i drive it, it might get canaried, so i better not risk it and put the car off for another 2 years.... :
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Old 24-12-2006, 10:21 PM   #77
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So you're removing the engine and box because the engine is making noises? Sounds like you're taking one step forward and six steps back. If it aint broke don't fix it... just replace/rebuild your engine and get on with driving the damn thing. I don't drive my car for one week and i get withdrawl symptoms, don't know how you guys manage to pull the things off the road for months on end..
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Old 24-12-2006, 11:00 PM   #78
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Its all BS.

Fix and drive your car. If you don't like opinions cos its YOUR car and YOUR money then stop posting all your ideas on here.

Seriously, I couldn't care if your car sits in your shed for ever - it's your money Ralf.

Reality Check.
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Old 24-12-2006, 11:22 PM   #79
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mine made noises aswell, sounds like i was having the same prob, you know what i did threw that p.o.s out built a knew one and now i wont stop driving it untill............................................ ....that goes then ill throw that one out take my little but out and find another which ill do the same..........................i cannt stand having the car sitting there doing bugger all,"cars are made to be driven not looked at"
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Old 24-12-2006, 11:22 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boys_Love_Toys
If you don't like opinions cos its YOUR car and YOUR money then stop posting all your ideas on here.
its better than all the "what should i do??" threads...
This would be one of the more high-profile cars in the eseries forum, most of the people here want to know what's going on with it. If its not on the road, people will want to know why.
And he has the right to post what he's doing, thats what the forums are for.
and like i said, its better than the majority of the stuff posted here lately...

Back on topic, will the rebuild involve 'race-series' pistons and other goodies, or just a freshen up? it its the latter, maybe a low-K AU motor (fitted with your modded head) would be a better solution?
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Old 25-12-2006, 01:24 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boys_Love_Toys
Its all BS.

Fix and drive your car. If you don't like opinions cos its YOUR car and YOUR money then stop posting all your ideas on here.

Seriously, I couldn't care if your car sits in your shed for ever - it's your money Ralf.

Reality Check.
if you don't like it then leave.
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Old 25-12-2006, 05:35 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montyv8
Back on topic, will the rebuild involve 'race-series' pistons and other goodies, or just a freshen up? it its the latter, maybe a low-K AU motor (fitted with your modded head) would be a better solution?
I will be getting the bottom end rebuilt "race spec" using low comp pistons. I'm not all that cluey about what can be done and what's available for the rebuild, haven't properly looked into it yet and ATM just trying to get the funds together. After new years i will be looking into what's available and will let you guys know exactly what the rebuild is going to consist of. The future will involve big power, so there would be little point in doing a standard rebuild now and upgrading yet again. I will be using the current head i have now as it's had a bit of work done to it, then later on i'll decide what i'll be doing in that department.

PS. Since i have an EF K-frame, an AU motor transplant would involve me cutting too much out of the frame...
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Old 25-12-2006, 01:16 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve
PS. Since i have an EF K-frame, an AU motor transplant would involve me cutting too much out of the frame...
Steve, this is why you need us man.

A mob in qld have an AU engine with an alloy welded sump, alternator, and bracket for an EF k-frame, that will slot STRAIGHT IN to your engine bay, with NO modification.

It was around $880. Probably $100 for postage.

I can't find the link at the moment, but someone else may have the link?

EDIT: Link: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWA:IT&ih=001
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Old 25-12-2006, 03:12 PM   #84
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Hey Rymers, were you cruising around glen waverly area kinda saturday night around 2.30-3 in the morning?
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Old 26-12-2006, 04:09 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuresm58
Steve, this is why you need us man.

A mob in qld have an AU engine with an alloy welded sump, alternator, and bracket for an EF k-frame, that will slot STRAIGHT IN to your engine bay, with NO modification.

It was around $880. Probably $100 for postage.

I can't find the link at the moment, but someone else may have the link?

EDIT: Link: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWA:IT&ih=001
Thanx but it doesn't matter anyway, the EF motors getting the rebuild. If I was looking to convert to an AU motor then i'd definately consider it. What advantage would a worked AU motor have over a worked EF motor?? I wouldn't imagine much if any...
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Old 26-12-2006, 04:11 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickus
Hey Rymers, were you cruising around glen waverly area kinda saturday night around 2.30-3 in the morning?
The cars not being driven so somehow i doubt it was me :P But damn I hope there are no other mercury silver EA's sporting bonspeeds getting around :
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Old 26-12-2006, 12:22 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rmyers
Thanx but it doesn't matter anyway, the EF motors getting the rebuild. If I was looking to convert to an AU motor then i'd definately consider it. What advantage would a worked AU motor have over a worked EF motor?? I wouldn't imagine much if any...
Alot.

The bottom end in an AU motor is alot stronger, due to the bolts in the sump. Sunny knows more about this.

AU engines are stronger in the bottom end in almost every way. Even a standard AU bottom end would be stronger than an ACL rebuilt EF bottom end I'd imagine.
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Old 26-12-2006, 06:03 PM   #88
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modded AU sump, AU bottom end, EF head.

do it properly - isnt that why youre taking it off the road?
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Old 26-12-2006, 06:10 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galapogos01
modded AU sump, AU bottom end, EF head.

do it properly - isnt that why youre taking it off the road?
Exactly right.
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Old 26-12-2006, 06:12 PM   #90
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standard AU bottom end better then a built EF Bottom end? not a chance.
the BLOCK itself may be better, but decent pistons and rods in an EF bottom end will make for a better motor.
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