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Old 26-03-2010, 10:57 AM   #31
Dave_Obsession
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave93761
Are there any cams that have a 1000 - 4000/4500 range that can be swapped straight in to an AU without requiring anything extra? Or would that be a custom job?
Answered my own question almost.....

http://www.camtechcams.com.au/ford_6cyl_elau.html
The CT007 848 looks like a winner for a daily drive.......

EDIT - The CT007 846 or the 845 would be better I know, but as I've got an auto without a hi-stall (not really interested in the additional cost and time off the road to get one), the 848 would be most suitable..........don't really go above 4000rpm much on the road anyway?!?!?

Question - would this cam require new valve springs??? How much for a new set?
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Old 26-03-2010, 11:53 AM   #32
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Dave - I reckon you could run stock springs with the 848. But if you wanted to get new springs, my guess is to call up Burson's, Motor Traders or Autopro for prices on replacement springs to suit AU. Alternatively you can call Camtech and see if they will supply matching valve springs for the cam you choose.
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Old 26-03-2010, 12:20 PM   #33
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Well, it ended up in me not getting. Couple of reasons:

It is too small of a cam to bother with &
If I go any bigger than that I need a flash tuner and the car needs a dyno tune
(well over $1000 for that alone)

Noone could really answer my question of whether itd be worthwhile over the cam my xr6 already has and obviousely if it runs with the factory computer, its too soft.
Ive been trying to sell the car lately so Im spending time and money tidying up little annoying things cams are the last thing on my mind at the moment.
My conclusion is that unless you already have a flash tuner or a chip and if they are really big you need a manual or a high stally and possibly valve springs, cams are just too expensive and not feasable on the AU and newer I6 which requires a tune. Think about it as $600 for the cam, $900 for the flash tuner, $500 for tunes. Thats $2000 for a cam. Not worth it IMO
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Old 26-03-2010, 12:39 PM   #34
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Interesting analysis there Davo. I have been considering the same outcome as you and have almost drawn to the same conclusion except that I have the flash tuner already and have considered a reground cam.

For me a cam regrind would cost $188 plus postage to wade and back, add another $100. Fitting and tuning would be about $600 with my mechanic. More feasible for my end of it NOW after I got my flash tuner.

But for you I can see what your dilemma is and side with you that its a costly exercise for what could be 10-15rwkw gain at best.

For this reason alone is why I chose to run boost on an unopened engine.
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Old 26-03-2010, 12:43 PM   #35
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To put it into perspective, how much did it cost you to supercharge?
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Old 26-03-2010, 12:51 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVO_XR
To put it into perspective, how much did it cost you to supercharge?
Geez thats a hard one. Considering I bought my supercharger kit 2nd hand of a member here.

Supercharger less flash tuner - $2500 (RRP $5500 with flash tuner incl.)
Flash Tuner 1 and fitting/tune - $1000
4480 Headers & HF cat supplied and fitted - $850
Fit all supercharger components - $400
2.5" cat back - $350
Intercooler kit - $650
Intercooler fitting and tuning - $1200

Total for engine thus far = $6950 for power from 112rwkw to 205rwkw all on an unopened engine.
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Old 26-03-2010, 06:57 PM   #37
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Well that's a really cost efficient result shav. Gets me wondering if I should stay NA or not haha
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Old 26-03-2010, 08:42 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Monty
Im running a fair size cam, .535 lift, 218@.050 thou duration.

I ran the car with no tune, chewed 20L of BP ultimate in like 5 km and 15 minutes idling, couldnt really drive it, fouled plugs, oxy sensor and cat, and was hopelessly slow. Plus to get it to drive without stalling, I had to either D slam it from 2000rpm, or stall it to 2000rpm and let it go every time.

Im sure the crow cams are regrinds, so that means youll need shims. Youll also most likely need a vernier gear to make the most of it. If you get a cam as big as mine, youll also need valve springs and retainers.

Once it was tuned, car runs great, idles (extremely lumpy) at 800-850RPM, and even with a stall and 3.9's averages around 10.9L/100km.
Only problem is its a bit slow under 3500rpm, but you get that with big cams. In saying that, it will happily swing past 6000rpm and feel very strong doing it.

I think for the value of the cam, springs, head to match, spring retainers, vernier gear, gasket sets and everything, head bolts, and a tune, probably the worst mod in terms of power and value Ive done, although I couldnt live without the idle.

Best mod so far would be diff gears, hands down.
G'day mate, are you running high stall? Dont answer mate i just read your sig you have a 3000 stall.

AZZA
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Old 26-03-2010, 10:08 PM   #39
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Its only 2500 instead of 3000 like it was meant to be.
Considering I make peak torque at around 33-3500rpm, its not the nicest combo to drive around with.
Its very doughy down low, but once over 3500 it goes great.
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Old 26-03-2010, 10:26 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueoval
Geez thats a hard one. Considering I bought my supercharger kit 2nd hand of a member here.

Supercharger less flash tuner - $2500 (RRP $5500 with flash tuner incl.)
Flash Tuner 1 and fitting/tune - $1000
4480 Headers & HF cat supplied and fitted - $850
Fit all supercharger components - $400
2.5" cat back - $350
Intercooler kit - $650
Intercooler fitting and tuning - $1200

Total for engine thus far = $6950 for power from 112rwkw to 205rwkw all on an unopened engine.
Yeah thats a very good result.
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Old 26-03-2010, 11:34 PM   #41
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i wouldnt have gone boost if it werent for the cheaper s/c kit. But its all horses for courses.
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Old 29-03-2010, 08:47 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueoval
But for you I can see what your dilemma is and side with you that its a costly exercise for what could be 10-15rwkw gain at best.
I gained nearly 30rwkw with a cam and tune (from 123 --> 151 iirc), tad slow below around 2000, but above 3000, thing pulls like a donkey

Gonna go back in during my hols in a cupla weeks to up the downlow torque with his stage 2A cam (hopefully break the 400s and keep around the same rwkw)

I wonder what a complete stocko AU feels like compared to the modded ones. LoL
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Old 29-03-2010, 09:16 PM   #43
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I get to drive my mums forte. 3.08's, 2.5 inch Lukey exhaust, modded airbox, kandn filter and ported throttle body.
I mash the accelerator, and its like buuuuuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrr.//......(bogs down, sloooowwlwlly picking up speed) and after 3k its all good.
Then I hop in mine and it seriously feels like a rocket.
I was wondering if I could get hold of an I-phone with G-force app and measure the difference between the two, would be very interesting.
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Old 29-03-2010, 09:40 PM   #44
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Davo.Your xr6 cam is an awesome cam as is. From memory it loves exhaust and a tune. Youll have a good idle and a potential from 15.2 to 14.6 1/4 mile . Nothing slow about those times at all. From memory the stock valve springs can take about 510 lift without headaches but check these things before you do it to be sure.
Ive got a cam slightly smaller than monty and it idles cammy.. In saying that my earlier pursuit to get these things hauling lead me to try whatever it took to make things happen.
The car gets off the mark well and travells nicely. I havent raced it in quite a while but its great to drive. I dont have any bog off the mark but I run a haltech interceptor piggyback. I tune it myself to keep it running ok. While there are some great tuners out there its cheaper to tune it myself.What I have learned from tuning the car in the real world has really been a mindblowing experience .I have learnt things you can only learn by doing.
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Old 30-03-2010, 10:29 AM   #45
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hey mate, would joe recommend the cam you have for a supercharger?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ayeyew
I gained nearly 30rwkw with a cam and tune (from 123 --> 151 iirc), tad slow below around 2000, but above 3000, thing pulls like a donkey

Gonna go back in during my hols in a cupla weeks to up the downlow torque with his stage 2A cam (hopefully break the 400s and keep around the same rwkw)

I wonder what a complete stocko AU feels like compared to the modded ones. LoL
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Old 30-03-2010, 11:56 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueoval
hey mate, would joe recommend the cam you have for a supercharger?
im pretty sure anything over .500 lift is just abit to much for s/c or turbos, would need to drop it back down to something smaller.
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Old 31-03-2010, 11:14 AM   #47
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thought so. I think for boost you need more overlap and less lift. Cheers for the reply.
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