T5 Conversion

[LG]

G'day guys,

Now I know I have an AU, but seeing you guys have done the most manual conversions here it'd be best to ask you lot.

I picked up a AU T5 with:
- Flywheel (Just been machined & lightened)
- Bell Housing
- Brackets
- Bolts
- Dust Cover

The box is in good condition, and has done 40,000 kms. How much will a rebuild or service cost on the gearbox?

Now, I'm about to go through and order a Clutch Cable, and speak to Mal Wood about the Clutch Pin Adapter, so I don't need a full new Pedal Box.

Now, about Clutches, can anyone recommend a good clutch. I've heard and read good things about Xtreme Clutches in SA. I'm after a light clutch, will the PBR Heavy Duty one will be fine, or shall I go for an Xtreme Clutch?

Now, ECU... I didn't get a manual ECU, so I'm gonna do the Hack on mine, or I'm gonna try and pick up a XR6 Manual ECU.

Now the Interior, I'll obviously get a gear boot trimmed up, and a nice gear knob. So that's all sweet.

How do you go about making the shifter shorter? I'll eventually get a short-throw shifter... But do you just trim down the shifter? Anyone that does it?

Is there anything else i'm missing out? And does anyone know anywhere that can fit it? I know It's Performance will fit it for $400 (but they are in NSW), anyone really in Melbourne? Any good recommendations? I'll have a talk to my local mechanic, but I have a feeling he's gonna wanna charge a bomb.

Cheers

P.S. Is anyone interested in a Low km 4-Speed Auto? $900ono.

Originally Posted by LG

I picked up a AU T5 with:
- Flywheel (Just been machined & lightened)
- Bell Housing
- Brackets
- Bolts
- Dust Cover

Which brackets are you talking about? Crossmember?

You also need;
- Spigot bearing
- Clutch fork
- Thrust bearing
- Clutch Cable
- Clutch Pedal
- Pressure plate
- Friction Plate
- Center console piece, rubber noise/heat surround and gear boot

The box is in good condition, and has done 40,000 kms. How much will a rebuild or service cost on the gearbox?

If the box has only done that many kays, don't even bother with asking about rebuilds. Unless it crunches into gear, or whines, or won't select gears, etc, then it's fine. A service on a manual gearbox is really easy. There's just over 2 litres of oil to change (compared to 10 litres in a BTR 4 speed) and no filter/pan to drop. If it was me doing the conversion, i'd just change the oil (and maybe the seals depending on the condition of the oil/how long the box has been without a tailshaft yoke in the **** end of it)

Now, I'm about to go through and order a Clutch Cable, and speak to Mal Wood about the Clutch Pin Adapter, so I don't need a full new Pedal Box.

The clutch pin adapter is gold. It costs $100 incl postage, and will save you alot of hassle. It's strong too, and very easy to install. Just remember to get the bushes with the clutch pedal, and use them on the clutch pin. The pin doesn't come with the bushes.

Now, about Clutches, can anyone recommend a good clutch. I've heard and read good things about Xtreme Clutches in SA. I'm after a light clutch, will the PBR Heavy Duty one will be fine, or shall I go for an Xtreme Clutch?

The Xtreme clutch is light, and also has alot more clamping pressure. See http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...5&postcount=12

Now, ECU... I didn't get a manual ECU, so I'm gonna do the Hack on mine, or I'm gonna try and pick up a XR6 Manual ECU.

Basically, there are a few things you need to tell the ECU is there/normal. AU's run EEC-V yeh? If so, the wire numbers should be the same as EF/EL. See this document for details: http://www.fordmods.com/forums/documents.php?doc=42

If the pins are different, then you'll need to find which pin/wire does the following;

1. The ECU needs to think the oil temp in the auto box is fine. So this wire needs to be modified with a resistor to send the correct value. Otherwise, the ECU will increase the revs/turn the thermo's on full speed to try and cool it down.

2. The ECU should be told that it is in 'Drive'

3. The car won't start, unless you short out the starter inhibitor. This is the thing which stops the car from being started while the auto is in drive, 3, 2, 1, etc. This can be done by shorting it out on the AUTO loom, where it connects to the auto box. There's 4 prongs at the end of the loom, 2 are for reverse lights, and 2 are for starter inhibitor. You work out which is which, cos i don't have the foggiest :P

Now the Interior, I'll obviously get a gear boot trimmed up, and a nice gear knob. So that's all sweet.

Don't forget the console surround and rubber shifter surround undreneath, or you will have alot of heat/noise coming through.

P.S. Is anyone interested in a Low km 4-Speed Auto? $900ono.

That's a bit steep, considering a 4 speed auto can be fully rebuilt for around $600-900 depending on the mechanic.

Hope this has helped.

[LG]

Thanks buddy,

Yeah brackets for the clutch cable, and cross member, come with it. So does the starter motor.

Also, for the tailshaft, I understand I need a yoke to suit the manual. After the conversion, can you actually drive the car to a tailshaft/driveline shop? Or will you need to tow it? (The car that had this manual in, had the manual tailshaft yoke put in).

I also plan on getting Alloy Pedals, so that covers the pedals.

What do you mean, when you say console surround. They should use the same center console, shouldn't they?

Where exactly can I pick up these parts from? Should I get them through Mal Wood, or will Repco have most the parts?

Thanks heaps for that.

My Auto, was just at a first guess, I'd most likely bring it down a bit. (Done 7x,xxx kms, by the way)

Originally Posted by LG

Yeah brackets for the clutch cable, and cross member, come with it. So does the starter motor.

Yeah, that clutch bracket is the clutch fork.

Also, for the tailshaft, I understand I need a yoke to suit the manual. After the conversion, can you actually drive the car to a tailshaft/driveline shop? Or will you need to tow it? (The car that had this manual in, had the manual tailshaft yoke put in).

Tailshafts are exactly the same auto to manual, so i don't know what you're on about there..

I also plan on getting Alloy Pedals, so that covers the pedals.

What do you mean alloy pedals? You just cut your brake pedal down a bit (so it's not so big, and won't foul the clutch pedal when you clutch in) and add a normal clutch pedal.. What's this talk about 'alloy pedals' ? Do you mean the fake chrome looking pedal covers?

What do you mean, when you say console surround. They should use the same center console, shouldn't they?

The shifter surround, not so much the console surround. The piece of plastic/etc that goes around the shifter. I'm not sure, but i think in the AU's, you can just remove the auto shifter surround, and make the gear boot to suit the console, without the need for a manual shifter surround piece.

Where exactly can I pick up these parts from? Should I get them through Mal Wood, or will Repco have most the parts?

Being an AU, i'd guess ford would be really your only option, unless you can find an AU manual wreck at a wrecker somewhere.. which may be hard.

Repco should have the clutch cable, but that's about it. Ford will have the clutch pedal itself, and mal wood has the pin to attach the pedal to the auto pedal box.

[LG]

By the pedals I mean, get some Alloy Pedals welded on.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-FPV-peda...QQcmdZViewItem

Take the rubber ones off, and put them on.

For the AU, I think it's as simple as pulling out the plastic for the T-Bar, and filling it up with the Gear Boot.

I'll have more questions soon, but thanks.. You've helped a lot.

I'm a step closer :